-==========================================================-
-= G R A N T U R I S M O 3 A - S P E C =-
-==========================================================-
-= Gran Tursimo 3 A-Spec FAQ =-
-= For Playstation 2 =-
-= By: AlaskaFox(Ronan Murphy) =-
-= Created: August 13, 2001 =-
-= Date last Updated: September 6, 2002 =-
-= Version 2.2 =-
-= Home Page: http://tbns.net/deltablue/ =-
-= Gamefaqs CRP: =-
-= http://www.gamefaqs.com/features/recognition/7818.html =-
-= =-
-= Post your Questions/Suggestions on: =-
-= http://denim.bbboy.net/alaskafox-viewforum?forum=2 =-
-==========================================================-
Disclaimer
==========
This Game Guide / FAQ is created for personal use only. You must not use it
for anything that gains profit. Specifically Magazines, Game Guides,
Commercial Web Sites, unless you have my written permission.
You’re also not allowed to rip off part/s of this Game Guide / FAQ and put
it on your own Game Guide / FAQ. Anyone doing this is guilty of plagiarism",
the act of stealing and passing off of ideas and words of another as one’s
own without crediting the source.
You also cannot use this Game Guide / FAQ as a guide for you to make your own
Game Guide / FAQ, you must do everything there is to do in the game yourself
or have others give info about your game and give them proper credit. You
can copy the layout though.
You can put this Game Guide / FAQ on your non-commercial or non-profit web
site provided that not a single character has been edited or removed and you
MUST have permission from me in order to do so. You can also, print a copy of
the entire FAQ / Guide or a part of it, provided you only use it for personal
purposes.
Remember "You don’t have to steal, just ask." - B.O.F.III
Questions/Suggestions
=====================
If you wish to ask me a question or make a suggestion, go to:
http://denim.bbboy.net/alaskafox-viewforum?forum=2
and post a message, stating your query. I will try to get to it
as soon as possible. If I get an email regarding GT3, it will be
ignored and deleted.
Updates
=======
The latest version of this FAQ can, and always will be found at:
www.gamefaqs.com
Current Progress:
-----------------
Guide: 95% complete
File Size: 309K
Version 2.2 (Started: September 6, 2002)
----------------------------------------
- Updated Layout to match newer FAQs
- Removed email address, use my message board instead
- File Size: 310k
Version 2.1 (Started: April 6, 2002)
-------------------------------------
Title of this version: "VERSION 2.1 - THE KRUSTSER VERSION"
According to Krustser's Critique of this FAQ, there are numerous grammatical
errors contained herein. The main point of this version is to eradicate
these errors. (Note: I may add some extra stuff to the FAQ if I can get
around to doing it.)
- Changed £ to Euro, since Ireland did change to the Euro in January
- Corrected up to part of the Tuning School, search for SPELLCHECKED TO
HERE *************
- File Size: 309k
Version 2.0 (Started: February 26, 2002)
-----------------------------------------
- Car Guide: Shelby - Volkswagen Added
- Car Guide: Ford, Honda Updated
- Simulation Races: Amateur, Endurance Updated
- 3 FAQs added
- FAQ 5 Updated
- File Size: 309k
Version 1.9 (Started: January 02, 2002)
-----------------------------------------
- Layout Updated
- Car Guide: Peugeot - RUF Added
- File Size: 282k
Version 1.8 (Started: October 21, 2001)
-----------------------------------------
- Car Guide: Panoz Added
- Tuning School: New Board Address added
- File Size: still 276k
Version 1.7 (Started: October 1, 2001)
-----------------------------------------
- Car Guide: Mitsubishi - Pagani Added
- Car Guide: Honda Mugen S2000 Added
- FAQ Section Added
- 11 FAQs added to FAQ Section
- Simulation Races Complted
- File Size: 276k
Version 1.6 (Started: September 22, 2001)
------------------------------------------
- Parts Guide Completed
- Simulation Guide/Walkthrough finished
- Added all Licences
- Car Guide: Chevrolet - Mini Added
- A few mistakes corrected.
- File Size: 248k
Version 1.5 (Started: September 21, 2001)
------------------------------------------
- Car Guide: Acura, Alfa, Aston, Audi, BMW Added
- Parts Guide: Engine Completed
- Parts Guide: Gearbox, Clutch, Flywheel Added
- File Size: 193K
Version 1.4 (Started: September 12, 2001)
------------------------------------------
- Parts Guide: Brakes, Engine Added
- International B Licence Added
- Hints/Tips: 2 Tips Added
- Tuning School Updated
- Driving School Updated
- File Size: 183k
Version 1.3 (Started: August 16, 2001)
----------------------------------------
- Glitches Section Added(5 Glitches)
- Hints/Tips Added(1 Tip)
- Simulation Guide Added
- Driving School: Drivetrains, Tyres Added
- Gameshark Codes Added
- Tuning School Updated
- Corrected some small spelling/grammar mistakes
- File Size: 145k
Version 1.2 (Started: August 15, 2001)
----------------------------------------
- Car Acquisition: Acura-Volkswagen Added
- Tuning School Added
- A Licence Added
- Simulation Races: Endurance Added
- File Size: 111k
Version 1.1 (Started: August 15, 2001)
-----------------------------------------
- Simulation Races: Professional Completed
- B Licence Added
- File Size: 54.1k
Contents
=============
i) Options
ii) Arcade Mode
iii) Simulation Mode
iv) Licences
a) B Licence
b) A Licence
c) International-B Licence
d) Interantional-A Licence
e) Special Licence
f) Rally Licence
v) Simulation Races
a) Beginner League
b) Amateur League
c) Professional League
d) Endurance League
e) Rally League
vi) Car Acquisition
vii) Tuning School
viii) Driving School
ix) Simualtion Guide
x) Parts Guide
a) Brakes
b) Engine
c) Gearbox
d) Clutch
e) Fly Wheel
f) Propellor Shaft
g) Mufflers and Air Cleaners
h) Weight Reduction
i) Professional Tune-Up Parts
j) Full Customising Service
k) YAW Control System
l) Suspension
m) Anti-Roll Bars
n) Intercooler
o) Tyres
xi) Car Guide
xii) Glitches
xiii) Hints/Tips
xiv) Gameshark Codes
xv) Frequently-Asked-Questions
xvi) Outro/Credits
Throughout this FAQ you will see the words "Index Number" and "Search
Field". These are to help you locate certain sections of the FAQ, as
listed in the index. Use Ctrl + F on most Word Processors and in Internet
Explorer to use the Find/Locate command.
Example:If you are looking for the section "Licences - B Licence",
type 'iv-a' into the Find box. 'iv' is the Index Number and 'a' is the section
number. This will take you to the beginning of the section.
This section has been removed, as it is absolutely pointless. If you wish
to see this section, visit one of the websites which has stolen my FAQ,
and you'll get version 1.1 or something close to it.
NOTE TO PEOPLE WHOLE STEAL FAQS: I will hunt you all down and kill you,
either that or get your website removed from the server.
There are four difficulty modes in Arcade:
Easy - I wonder how tough this one is? - 2 Laps in every race
Normal - Slighlty more difficult - 3 Laps per race
Hard - Arrrrggghhh!!! A tough cookie! - 5 Laps per race
Pro - Sssshhhh! It's a secret. - Dunno, haven't tried it.
When you get first position in all races(thirty-four of em) in each
difficulty level, you will open a prize. I haven't played Arcade much,
so I've only completed Easy mode. Post the prizes for the other modes.
Thanks to whoever posted the message about Pro mode! To open Pro mode,
press L1 and R1 together on the difficulty mode screen.
Prizes:
Easy - Ending Movie A
Normal - ?-?-?
Hard - ?-?-?
Pro -
There are Six Areas in Arcade mode, all of which contain some new tracks.
To advance to the next area, you must win all tracks in the current area
first.
When you complete an Area on Hard difficulty, you will be rewarded with
a prize car. I'll get around to this next update.
The tracks in each area are:
Area A
------
-Mid-Field Raceway
-Mid-Field Raceway II
-Smokey Mountain
-Super Speedway
-Swiss Alps
-Trial Mountain
Area B
------
-Grand Valley Speedway
-Laguna Seca Raceway
-Rome Circuit
-Smokey Mountain II
-Taihiti Circuit
-Tokyo Route 246
Area C
------
-Deep Forest Raceway
-Seattle Circuit
-Special Stage R5
-Swiss Alps II
-Test Course
-Trial Mountain II
Area D
------
-Apricot Hill Raceway
-Grand Valley Speedway II
-Rome Circuit II
-Taihiti Circuit II
-Taihiti Maze
-Tokyo Route 246 II
Area E
------
-Cote D'Azur
-Deep Forest Raceway II
-Seattle Cicuit II
-Special Stage R11
-Special Stage R5 II
Area F
------
-Apricot Hill Raceway II
-Special Stage R11 II
-Special Stage R5
-Special Stage R5 II
-Taihiti Maze II
Home
----
You start at home with your wife and three lovely kids. I wonder what the
wife(or husband, forgive me women drivers) thinks of your choice of
career. I know, I know, you're just trying to raise money to send little
Timmy to University. But didn't your mystery benefactor(kinda Great
Expectations-like this is) leave you 20 grand? Wouldn't that pay for Timmy's
education? But no, you're greedy, you want more. And you're right too...
Welcome to the world of Gran Turismo 3 A-Spec!
From Home, you can look in your garage, which is currently empty. How did
you drive Timmy to the Football Games with no car?
You can look at your Game Status, which lists nothing thusfar.
You can Trade cars with another Memory Card.
You can Save the Game and view the Credits.
You can also head off to the shops, races and others.
Garage
------
This stores your valued motors. You can sort your cars(when you get some),
by a simple press of the START button. There are numerous sorting methods
including: Car name, manufacturer(the one you should choose), value, and
even colour! So if you want all your blue cars in the one place, you can
have it! Oh yeah, your garage can hold up to 200 motors, but no more(is
that not enough for you? this is one big garage!).
First thing every driver needs...no not furry dice, a car!
Car Dealer
----------
The Car Dealer screens, alias Heaven. Here you will find everything you
ever dreamt of, not that you can afford it, mind, but it's here. Find a
car that tickles your fancy(that is one strange expression), and get in
the driving seat. When buying a new car, there is no 2nd-hand ones like
the prequels, you can change the colour before you purchase, so select
wisely. You can also have a look at the Specs if you like.
Next we need to be allowed to drive...
Licence Centre
--------------
Here you can do numerous tests in order to achieve your goal: Every licence.
I'll describe the steps in gaining licences later in this FAQ.
We want to check out that car of ours....
Machine Test
------------
You can do a few tests here, but always favourite is the Top Speed test.
Get in your vehicle and put the pedal to the metal. Also, if you have time
(you won't), try out the 0-400m test.
At last, off to the track....Right, I'm back, that horse was a no-hoper!
I lost 5 Euro! Damnit! Oh right, you wanted a racing track....
Go Race
-------
Here is the most used screen in the game. The race screen. There are many
races here, but only some you can enter straight away. Some need licences,
some need a mid-engined car or a 4wd, some need Rally Tyres. Yes, I know
you're not reading this, you're racing, but listen to me! Or read my text,
since you're not hearing my voice. Start off on the Beginner Races, and
make your way through the Amateur Races, then onto the rock-hard
Professional Races. Also give the Endurance Races and Rallies a try, in
fact do it all! That's why you bought/rented/pawned/sold your soul for this
game! I'll explain all in more detail later.
Now that we've got more money we can turn our vehicle into a mean-green(or
red, blue, white, whatever colour it is) driving machine.
Tune Shop
---------
Siopa Tuineach as the Irish would say, probably not, but I wanted to add
a bit of Gaeilge to my FAQ to make it unique. Here you can buy parts for
you car to make it better, new tyres, and maybe you might get a smelly tree
if you're lucky.
GT Auto
-------
Here you can get some Alloy Wheels or a Car Wash. Alloys look great, don't
you think? But the car wash is a waste of Credits.
There are many kinds of licence: TV Licence, Dog Licence, Sale of Alcohol
Licence...mmmm, duff beer....Sorry, anyway, you want a driving licence.
Head down to the Test Center, Select which Licence you want, NO! you need
to open the earlier ones before you can try the I-A Licence, silly.
The key to getting the licences is watching the computer demos, that way
you'll see what you need to do to achieve your goal.
=---------------------------------=
=- B Licence -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: iv-a
B-1
---------------------------------
Start, Acceleration and Braking
G/S/B: 0:35:100 / 0:35:400 / 0:35:800
Car: Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0
Game Help:
Accelerate from a standing start and stop as quickly as possible in the goal
area beyond the finish line at 1000 metres. It is best to switch from full
acceleration to full braking.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
When you come to around 950m brake, yeah, that's it.
B-2
---------------------------------
Start, Acceleration and Braking II
G/S/B: 0:25:600 / 0:25:800 / 0:26:300
Car: Dodge Viper GTS-R
Game Help:
This test is similar to B-1, but with a higher powered test car that
accelerates quicker but is heavier, so you need to start braking sooner.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This time, brake around the 888m mark to ensure that vital Gold.
B-3
----------------------------------
Basics of Cornering: Front Wheel Drive
G/S/B: 0:31:100 / 0:31:400 / 0:32:500
Car: Fiat Coupé Turbo+
track: Deep Forest Raceway
Game Help:
Negotiate a left turn after a long straight. Brake early and slow before
turning. Come in too fast and the car will not turn, but will fly off
the outside of the corner. Take it easy going into the corner but hit the
gas early coming out. Out of the corner, take full advantage of the track
outside edge.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Follow the Blue line along the track, because it's the Racing Line(no pun
intended). Brake around 50m from the corner, take it easy around the turn,
and accelerate to the finish. You don't need to brake on the finish this
time, just pass over it.
B-4
----------------------------------
Basics of Cornering: Rear Wheel Drive
G/S/B: 0:29:100 / 0:29:400 / 0:31:000
Car: Honda S2000
Track: Deep Forest Raceway
Game Help:
This test is the same as B-3, but this time you are driving a high-powered
rear-wheel drive car, so hitting the gas too early in the corner risks the
rear wheels losing their grip for a spin. In cornering, adjust the
accelerator a little at a time and feel for when to go full out.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This time, brake slightly earlier, and wait until your car has straightened
out before accelerating onto the finish.
B-5
-----------------------------------
Applied Cornering: Front Wheel Drive
G/S/B: 0:34:400 / 0:34:800 / 0:36:200
Car: Honda Civic Type-R
Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Game Help:
From a standing start, take three consecutive corners: left, right and left.
Rather than going full-out on the first two corners, figure out how to get
out of the third corner smoothly by hitting the gas for a fast time. Take
the line that puts you in the best shape for getting out of the last corner.
Gaining speed on the following long straightaway is more important than
anything else.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the first corner at full pelt, and for the second take it easier, but
still no braking. They're just warm-up turns for this last one. Brake in
the red section, keep it slow and accelerate into the tunnel.
B-6
-------------------------------------
Applied Cornering: Rear Wheel Drive
G/S/B; 0:33:00 / 0:33:300 / 0:34:700
Car: Mazda MX-5 Roadster LS
Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Game Help:
This course is the same as in B-5, but with a rear-wheel drive, hitting and
releasing the gas causes even larger changes in attitude. Be careful not to
disturb the car's behavior. This car demands more delicate accelerator
control and more careful steering than a front-wheel drive.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the first two turns the same as B-5. This test might as well be B-5,
because everything is the same. Just Read B-5 to figure out how to do this.
B-7
-------------------------------------
Basics of Complex Corners
G/S/B: 0:33:300 / 0:33:800 / 0:35:400
Car: Toyota MR-S S Edition
Track: Deep Forest Raceway
Game Help:
Here you run through a blind high-speed winding section. The left-to-right
corner just before the tunnel is a very difficult corner. First get
experience in a somewhat underpowered car with less risk. The key is to hit
the brakes with the car going as straight as possible.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This one is as easy as pie. How easy is pie, I never baked it. Or does it
mean the American Pie way? Uhm.... For the first corner, take your finger
off X for a short time, and the same for the next corner. Did I mention
"easy"?
B-8
-------------------------------------
B Licence Final Exam
G/S/B: 0:43:000 / 0:43:400 / 0:46:000
Car: Nissan Skyline GT-R
Track: Trial Mountain
Game Help:
This course has many blind corners. The rocky stretch in the first part
requires bold driving with no fear of the rocky cliffs. Use the technique
of releasing the gas to turn the car. The speed out of the last left turn
has a big effect on the time. The fastest line barely grazes the cliff when
coming into the corner and lets out in the depths of the tunnel.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Brake slightly for the first turn, ease of X for the second. And take it
easy just before the tunnel. Hopefully you've got all Golds, but maybe
not. My Guide to Gold isn't in-depth enough. I'll have to rectify that.
Anyway congratulations on getting your B Licence.
PRIZE CAR - All Golds in B - Mazda MX-5 Roadster LS
=---------------------------------=
=- A Licence -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: iv-b
A-1
--------------------------------------
Practical Cornering 1
G/S/B: 0:32:900 / 0:33:400 / 0:34:700
Car: Honda NSX Type S Zero
Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Game Help:
Climb a hill with a gentle left and then negotiate a sharp right
turn. Trying to approach the right corner from too far to the outside will
cause instability under braking, so there is no need to come from excessively
far outside. Try to brake in a straight line, aiming for the
inside curb. Then you just need to find the point to go to full throttle.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Follow the blue line up to the corner, but as soon as you reach the red
lines, brake to get around the corner. Coming out of the corner, straighten
out and accelerate to the finish.
A-2
--------------------------------------
Practical Cornering 2
G/S/B: 0:26:000 / 0:26:300 / 0:27:600
Car: Nissan Skyline GT-R v-spec II
Track: Laguna Seca Raceway
Game Help:
The secret to a fast time is getting to the inside curb quickly after the
end f braking, and using fine accelerator control to trace a long line right
next o the curb. Once you see where to come out of the corner and go on the
throttle, try to control the tail slide (when the rear tires succumb to too
much power and slide to the outside) while riding up just barely on the
outside curb.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This test is almost entirely the same as the above one. Follow the guide
for that one, and it'll work here.
A-3
--------------------------------------
Practical Cornering 3
G/S/B: 0:29:900 / 0:30200 / 0:31:600
Car: Honda S2000
Track: Mid-Field Raceway
Game Help:
Here you negotiate the fastest number one corner on the Mid-Field Raceway.
In contrast to the corners so far that required heavy braking, try downshifting
to 3rd gear with light braking and just grazing the inside.
Stay in 3rd and keep your speed up while aiming at the curb on the outside
to draw a large circular path with a constant radius. There is no need to
trace the inside curb all the time.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Another simple test, upon entering the turn jab the brakes and accelerate
out.
A-4
-------------------------------------
Circle Track: 60R, Dry Road
G/S/B: 0:43:900 / 0:44:300 / 0:46:200
Car: Mazda RX-7 Type RZ
Track: Circle Track: 60R
Game Help:
Three laps around a circular track with a 60-m raidus. Try using fine
steering and accelerator control to keep to a line right next to the inside
curb from start to finish. Just before the finish line, gain time by using
the full width of the track so that you cross the finish line all the way
to the outside. Watch for tail slides from hitting the gas too hard.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
The strategy for this test is pumping the accelerator so as not to exceed
70mp/h, as long as you stay around 65, you should be OK. Keep to the
inside of the track to finish this quicker.
A-5
-------------------------------------
Circle Track: 100R, Dry Road
G/S/B: 0:55:800 / 0:56:300 / 0:59:000
Car: Mazda RX-7 Type RZ
Track: Circle Track: 100R
Game Help:
Three laps around a circular track with a 100-m raidus. Try using fine
steering and accelerator control to keep to a line right next to the
inside curb from start to finish. Just before the finish line, gain time by
using the full width of the track so that you cross the finish line all the
way to the outside. Watch for tail slides from hitting the gas too hard.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This is the same as the previous one, with a larger track. The strategy is
almost the same this time, just keep the speed below 90 and hog the inside
kerb(that's how it's spelled in Ireland) to get Gold.
A-6
--------------------------------------
Long Corners
G/S/B: 0:27:000 / 0:27:500 / 0:29:500
Car: Jaguar XKR Coupé
Track: Mid-Field Raceway
Game Help:
This is a left/right complex corner. Avoid getting close to the inside too
early on the first right corner and aim for the inside curb at the tunnel
entrance. The next corner is a left, so avoid going all the way to the
outside but rather point the car to the right side of the track and get
ready for the next left corner. In the long left corner, avoid goosing the
accelerator and keep to the inside without haste.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
You'll be already moving when this test begins, so hold the accelerator
before the test begins. Keep accelerating down to the first corner, but
as you near it, hit the brakes and take an inside line. If you did this
right, braking will not be needed for the next corner, just a decrease
in acceleration.
A-7
-------------------------------------
Blind Corner
G/S/B: 0:14:200 / 0:14:700 / 0:15:400
Car: Chevrolet Camaro Z28
Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Game Help:
You must negotiate a right turn at the top of a hill in Seattle. The corner
is completely blind, so getting ready to brake in advance is necessary.
After landing the last jump, brake immediately and turn to the right, aiming
for the inside curb. Hit the gas once you are cleanly on the curb and use
the outside wall as far as possible.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Another rolling start this one, so be ready! Continue accelerating up to
the first turn, following the blue lines. When you reach the red ones,
brake to get you around the turn.(It's always the same, isn't it? Follow
blue, brake red)
A-8
--------------------------------------
A Licence Final Exam
G/S/B: 0:15:530 / 0:16:000 / 0:17:800
Car: Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV GSR
Track: Mid-Field Raceway
Game Help:
This is the most difficult stretch of Mid-Field. In the small S-corner,
ignore the first left and focus on the next right. Make a deep cut into the
right curb and come out as close as possible to the next hairpin. Brake
while disturbing the car's attitude to turn toward the inside. They key lies
in turning the car sharply in the first half of the corner so that you can
hit the gas when coming out.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Another Rolling start, this time at 100mp/h. Take the blue line again,
and take the first corner wide. Take the second one tight, and brake hard
for the final one. Wohoo, another licence!
Congratulations on getting your licence, you only got it because you were
flirting with the tester!
Prize for all Golds: Mazda RX-8
=---------------------------------=
=- International B licence -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: iv-c
IB-1
----------------------------------------
Circle Track: 60R, Wet Road
G/S/B: 0:49:600 / 0:50:200 / 0:52:800
Car: Chevrolet Corvette Z06
Track: Circle Track: 60R
Game Help:
Three laps around a circular track with a 60-m radius. This is basically the
same test as A-4, but this time the road is wet as if after a rain. The test
car has the traction control and other driver assist features turned off, so
even more delicate accelerator control is required. See how the car reacts
depending on how you step on the gas.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Keep to the centre of the road at all times, keeping the milometer at 95mph.
If you start to drift inside, speed up a little, but try to keep it between
90 and 100mph at all times.
IB-2
------------------------------------------
Circle Track: 100R, Wet Road
G/S/B: 1:01:600 / 1:02:400 / 1:05:500
Car: Chevrolet Corvette Z06
Track: Circle Track: 100R
Game Help:
Three laps around a circular track with a 100-m radius. This is basically
the same test as A-5, but this time the road is wet as if after a rain. The
test car has the traction control and other driver assist features turned
off, so even more delicate accelerator control is required. See how the car
reacts depending on how you step on the gas.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This is the same as the previous one but you can go above 100mph this time,
and stay above it!
IB-3
--------------------------------------------
Braking and Cornering 1
G/S/B: 0:22:450 / 0:23:000 / 0:24:500
Car: Honda S2000 Type V
Track: Seattle Circuit
Game Help:
Here you negotiate a 90-degree right turn at the end of the Seattle back
straightaway, and crank two consecutive sharp turns. Without a solid feel
for the point to start braking, not only will you overshoot the first right
corner but the car's attitude will be bad for entering the subsequent turns,
resulting in a big time loss.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Brake hard at the second turn sign, and turn into the corner. Take the next
turn out wide and the chicane wide also, and the rest should be no problem.
IB-4
---------------------------------------------
Braking and Cornering 2
G/S/B: 0:19:700 / 0:19:700 / 0:21:200
Car: Chevrolet Corvette Z06
Track: Seattle Circuit
Game Help:
This test has you negotiate Seattle's number 1 corner. This is a squared off
U-shaped corner combining two 90-degree turns. After braking fully to the
right speed, try to run a smooth circular line that clips the corners of
both turns. Even if you are not right at the inside of the first turn, be
sure to clip the second corner, taking a line that emphasizes the corner
exit.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
At the first U-turn sign, brake. Turn around the corner, keeping above
35mph at all times.
IB-5
---------------------------------------------
Turning, Accelerating, and Weight Shift
G/S/B: 0:28:800 / 0:29:300 / 0:30:500
Car: RUF 3400s
Track: Grand Valley Speedway
Game Help:
This is the final stretch of Grand Valley. After accelerating while turning
through the tunnel, negotiate two consecutive hairpin turns. While accelerating
through the tunnel, avoid swinging too far out. In the double
hairpin, change the orientation of the car with rythmical accelerator on/off
action. Trying too hard in the first right will make you suffer in the
second, more important corner.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the inside line for the first corner, and go wide 'round the S-bend.
Brake while turning to go through the S-bend.
IB-6
-----------------------------------------------
Fast Slalom 1
G/S/B: 0:23:900 / 0:24:200 / 0:26:200
Car: RUF RGT
Track: Complex String Section
Game Help:
Cars are susceptible to spin on this slalom track. The test car has the driver
assist features turned on. Here you can safely learn how to turn
with the accelerator off and stabilize the car with the accelerator on-an
important lesson in accelerator control for driving a car. The rhythm is
something like "turn the car and then hit the gas while passing the cones".
Try to take actions far, far in advance.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Speed through the first two turns, but slow down for the third. Ease off
for the rest of the turns. It isn't as tough as tying your laces.
IB-7
-------------------------------------------------
Fast Slalom 2
G/S/B: 0:24:000 / 0:24:300 / 0:26:300
Car: RUF RGT
Track: Complex String Section
Game Help:
Now the test car's stability control system (which surpresses car spin) is
turned off. It is now necessary to turn with the accelerator off and stabilize
the car with the accelerator on much more carefully. By comparing
against the previous test, you should see just how much cars now depend on
technology. The key is to take actions far, far in advance to prevent car
movements from becoming too large.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Do the exact same as the last test except a small bit slower.
IB-8
----------------------------------------------------
International B Licence Final Exam
G/S/B: 0:31:700 / 0:32:000 / 0:33:7000
Car: Honda NSX Type S-Zero
Track: Apricot Hill
Game Help:
This is the most difficult stretch of Apricot Hill. You just graze the inside
of the first high-speed left and control the car from its unstable
attitude while intermittently applying brakes to enter the second left. Make
sure you are able to keep solidly to the inside of the left corner. In the
subsequent S turn section, watch for excess speed while rhythmically tracing
the curbs.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Keep to the right of the track. As you start to turn in for the corner, ease
off the gas. Slow down for the second corner, and use the curbs to get
through the final few corners.
Congratulations! International-B Licence Acquired. Though that was tough?,
now you better try it in the game. Reading it was hard, but doing is
tougher.
=---------------------------------=
=- International A Licence -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: iv-d
IA-1
----------------------------------------
Fast Complex Corners 1
G/S/B: 0:40:000 / 0:40:700 / 0:42:500
Car: Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car
Track: Tokyo R246
Game Help:
This is a technical section in the middle of Tokyo Route 246. Take the first
left by lightly letting up on the gas. Take the right corner at the top of
the hill by braking just before starting to climb the hill. It is a blind
corner, so be sure to remember the point when to start turning. If you think
of this as one large corner, you will be able to drive through it quickly.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Go wide for the first corner and use the kerb as you cut into the corner.
Keep pumping the accelerator to keep a constant speed around the corner.
Take a straight line through the next two corners and set yourself up on
the left for the straight. At the top of the hill, slam on the brakes as
you turn. Use the kerb, then go wide for the next corner. Again, for the
last corner, pump the accelerator to keep a constant speed.
IA-2
---------------------------------------------
Fast Complex Corners 2
G/S/B: 0:15:700 / 0:15:900 / 0:16:400
Car: Spoon S2000
Track: Trial Mountain
Game Help:
This is the last fast chicane on Trial Mountain. Basically you should be
able to take it at full throttle. The rhythm going from the first left to
cutting right is important. After riding up onto the left curb, you must
turn right immediately or risk crashing into the wall on exit. Riding up too
far on the high curb on the right side will make the car jump, so try to
graze it just barely.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Stay to the right for the straight, and cut into the corner, coming out of
it, keep to the right again and the next two corners should be easy. But
beware of the second of the two, don't jerk the car around or you'll risk
spinning.
IA-3
----------------------------------------------
Fast Complex Corners 3
G/S/B: 0:23:400 / 0:23:800 / 0:25:000
Car: Subaru Impreza Rally Car Prototype
Track: Deep Forest
Game Help:
This is the same track as in B-7. YOur car has more power this time,
requiring more accurate steering and rhythmical accelerator control. In the
corner that turns broadly to the right after leaving the first tunnel,
inadvertantly hitting the gas too early will cause the car to fly off to the
outside, so you must wait patiently for the point to go to full throttle.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Use the inside line for the first two corners. Take the third wide, but
cut in gradually to make it through in time.
IA-4
------------------------------------------------
Braking and Cornering 3
G/S/B: 0:32:200 / 0:32:400 / 0:34:400
Car: Honda Castrol Mugen NSX GT Car
Track: Tokyo R246
Game Help:
This section is from the latter half of Tokyo Route 246. In the braking into
corner number 1, it is important to find the optimal braking start point
that lets you turn into the corner the instant that braking ends. Excessive
speed must be avoided at all costs. The S-curve surrounded by fences after
the tree lined boulevard also require care in braking solidly before
entering and accelerating while leaving.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Keep to the left of the straight. When you reach the grind-strip, start
braking. Take the second corner out wide, and brake around the same
position again.
IA-5
----------------------------------------------------
Corkscrew
G/S/B: 0:23:900 / 0:23:300 / 0:25:000
Car: Dodge Viper GTS
Track: Tokyo R246
Game Help:
This is the famous corkscrew curve at Laguna Seca. The downhill stretch
before the corner makes the brakes less effective, so early braking is
required. Finding the best line is difficult, so check out the demo. The
left corner after the corkscrew lies after a steep downhill and has a
shallow bank, so watch for unusual car movement
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Drive up the hill and go towards the tyre marks. Brake just as you start
to come down the hill. Move over a little to the left in preperation for
the upcoming turn. Take the kerb route, and take the final turn out
wide.
IA-6
------------------------------------------------------
Fast Complex Corners 5
G/S/B: 0:20:100 / 0:20:400 / 0:21:300
Car: Pagini Zonda Z12
Track: Rome Circuit
Game Help:
This section is in the latte half of the Rome Circuit. These blind S-curves
go left-right-left. The back straightaway awaiting afterward is quite long,
so think about a line that gives the highest priority to exit speed. The
last right corner can definantly be taken at full throttle. It is very
important to avoid trying too hard at the exit of the first left corner.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Go wide for the first two bends, and take the inside route for the third.
Slow a bit for the first, brake, and slow....Simple.
IA-7
-------------------------------------------------------
Undulating Corners
G/S/B: 0:46:000 / 0:46:600 / 0:49:500
Car: Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec II
Track: Complex String Section
Game Help:
Negotiate the consecutive high-speed S curves while going over hills in the
final section of the Complex String track. The track is designed so that
turning alternates between the hilltops and valleys, so look out for major
changes in steering response depending on weight shifts. Coming out well
from the last hairpin turn is most important for shortening your time.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the right turn slowly and on the inside. These are just small corners,
so take your time. The final corner is a hairpin - beware!
IA-8
--------------------------------------------------------
Interantional-A Licence Final Exam
G/S/B: 1:08:500 / 1:10:000 / 1:12:500
Car: Nissan Mine's Skyline GT-R V-Spec
Track: Complex String Section
Game Help:
This is a reverse direction run over the constant-radius circular slalom
track at Complex String. The radii of the circles get progressively smaller,
so focus on controlling your speed to match the turn radius while avoiding
understeer. If you lose your rhythm and swing too far outside, this results
in a big time loss. This test is very difficult.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Although it looks and sounds really hard, in fact it's not. A bronze or
better should be achieved on your first go. The secret is to keep to the
inside of the turns while mainatining a constant speed.
Congartulations!(SIC)
=---------------------------------=
=- Special Licence -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: iv-e
I haven't got this yet. If anyone wants to help, post strategies and
advice and info on the exams. Credit will appear in the credit section.
R-1
------------------------------------------
Rally Driving Basics 1
G/S/B: 0:15:600 / 0@16:000 / 0:17:300
Car: Puegeot 206 Rally Car
Track: Tahiti Circuit
Game Help:
This test uses corner number 1 of the Tahiti Circuit. The main straightaway
is paved but watch out as it changes to dirt in corner number 1. After going
into the dirt while braking, you will find much more sliding but stay calm
and get used to the motion of the car. The steering reaction times become
slower so be sure to turn the wheel earlier.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Stay to the left, and then cut into and across the inside. Let off the
accelerator a small bit.
R-2
----------------------------------------------
Rally Driving Basics 2
G/S/B: 0:29:200 / 0:29:800 / 0:31:800
Car: Toyota Corolla Rally Car
Track: Smokey Mountain
Game Help:
This test uses the last section of Smokey Mountain. After the gradual uphill
left corner, the section with the right-left-right turns one after another
can be driven with steering turns made far, far in advance an exited in a
straight line. If it goes well, they can be negotiated without ever letting
up on the accelerator.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the first corners quickly enough, but slow down for the last corner.
Thats it, I'm afraid.
R-3
------------------------------------------------
Rally Driving Basics 3
G/S/B: 0:22:300 / 0:22:700 / 0:24:000
Car: Ford Escort Rally Car
Track: Swiss Alps Rally
Game Help:
This is a S-Curve in the middle section of the Swiss Alps track. Try
steering to the left while braking and once you graze the fence on the
inside of the grassy area, turn to the right at full throttle. Take the
gradual right corner just before reaching the back straightaway in "out-in-
out" style by turning the wheel as little as possible. The key to driving
here is to cut boldly across the grass areas.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take the first corner pretty tight so you can take the second one wide.
Make sure not to hit the fence as doing so will mean failure.
R-4
----------------------------------------------------
Practical Rally Driving 1
G/S/B: 0:22:400 / 0:22:800 / 0:24:300
Car: Toyota Celica Rally Car
Track: Tahiti Cicruit
Game Help:
Here are three connected corners in the last stretch of the Tahiti Circuit.
Always brake and steer well in advance to turn the car and trace the
shortest path while drifting. The key lies in grasping the relationship
between speed and sliding. Excess speed that pushes you too far on the
outside will make entering the next corner difficult and lead to time
losses.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Take all the corners wide and make sure to use the brake if you're going
out.
R-5
------------------------------------------------------
Practical Rally Driving 2
G/S/B: 0:26:850 / 0:27:300 / 0:29:800
Car: Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car
Track: Swiss Alps
Game Help:
This is a difficult section in the final stretch of the Swiss Alps,
requiring turn braking in hairpin turns. With full brakes on, just barely
graze the fence on the right and when your speed drops low enough, cut back
to the left. Taking this corner with a small, compact turn is most
important. Drifting too broadly in the final corner will not let you build
up speed so try to come out straight.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Brake sharply as you approach the first corner to make sure you can take
the second corner well. Take the inside line and then take the final long
turn on the inside also.
R-6
------------------------------------------------
Drifting Techniques 1
G/S/B: 0:29:400 / 0:30:000 / 0:31:800
Car:Delta HF Integrate Rally Car
Track: Taihiti Maze
Game Help:
These are four consecutive hairpin turns in the last stretch of the Tahiti
Maze. The key to drifting in a tight turn is to use braking and steering to
create an opportunity and instantly cause a tail slide by hitting the gas.
Thereafter, maintain the car's attitude with steering and accelerator
control. If you keep on the countersteer even further, you will get dumped
to the outside when exiting.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
This test is all about drifting. There are many tried and tested ways to
drift, so try which ever you feel suits you best. These ways can be found
on the drifting school on gamefaqs GT3 Message Board.
R-7
-------------------------------------------------
Drifting Techniques 2
G/S/B: 0:22:400 / 0:22:800 / 0:24:600
Car: Subaru Impreza Rally Car Prototype
Track: Tahiti Maze
Game Help:
These are three consecutive downhill hairpin turns on the last half of
Tahiti Maze II. The basics are the same as in Test R-6, but the downhill
makes the car more susceptible to sliding, so try to avoid excessive drift
angles. Try to find the point where to hit the brakes so that you just
barely graze the inside.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
You can take the first corner at full speed, but slow down more than in
R-6 for the other turns.
R-8
----------------------------------------------------
Rally Licence Final Exam
G/S/B: 1:58:700 / 2:00:000 / 2:08:000
Car: Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype
Track: Tahiti Maze
Game Help:
One lap around the Tahiti Maze in the latest rally car prototype version of
the Lancer Evolution. In the section with consecutive hairpin turns, try
tracing the shortest line with a drifting technique that clips corners right
in front of your nose. In the section with consecutive small corners in the
middle stretch, it is easy to spin out, so avoid drifting too daringly.
Drive the paved road at the end as carefully as the circuit.
AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold:
Use everything you learned in previous exams! Take all the corners wide
by using the brake when drifting to keep away from the walls.
-------------------
80's Sports Car Cup
-------------------
Licence Required:
-B Licence
Courses:
-Special Stage R5 - 2 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 II - 2 Laps
-Seattle Circuit II - 2 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mazda Savanna RX7 Infini III
Money Prizes:
-1st: 2500
-2nd: 1000
-3rd: 500
-4th: 400
-5th: 300
-6th: 200
Regulations/Limitations:
-Mazda Savanna RX7 Infini III,
-Mazda Eunos Roadster,
-Nismo Skyline GT-R S-Tune(R32),
-Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M(R32),
-Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II(R32),
-Nissan Silvia K's (S13 2000cc),
-Nissan Silvia K's (S13 1800cc),
-Nissan Fairlady Z Version S Twinturbo 2-seater,
-Nissan Fairlady Z Version R Twinturbo 2 by 2,
-Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex (A86 Type I),
-Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex S.S.
-only
-----------------
Race of NA Sports
-----------------
Licence Required:
-B Licence
Courses:
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 2 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 2 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway II - 2 Laps
Prize Car:
-Honda CR-X Del Sol SiR(J)
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 2500
-3rd: 1500
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-NA Cars only
--------------------
Race of Turbo Sports
--------------------
Licence Required:
-B Licence
Courses:
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 2 Laps
-Test Course - 2 Laps
-Special Stage R11 - 2 Laps
Prize Car:
-Daihatsu Mira Tr-XX Avanzato R(J)
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 2500
-3rd: 1500
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-Turbo Cars only
---------------------------
Tourist Trophy/Audi TT Race
---------------------------
Licence Required:
-B Licence
Courses:
-Rome Circuit - 2 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 2 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 2 Laps
-Special Stage R11 - 2 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 3 Laps
Prize Car:
-Audi TT 1.8T Quattro
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 1000
-3rd: 500
-4th: -
-5th: -
-6th: -
-Championship: 10000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Audi TT 1.8T Quatro only
=---------------------------------=
=- Amateur League -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: v-b
------------------
Japan Championship
------------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Tokyo Route 246 - 3 Laps
-Super Speedway - 6 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 3 Laps
-Special Stage R11 - 3 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 II - 3 Laps
Prize Car:
-Subaru Impreza Wagon WRX STi Version VI,
-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV GSR,
-Mistubishi FTO GP Version R,
-Mazda RX-7 Type RZ
Money Prizes:
-1st: 7500
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 200
-Championship: 15000
Regulations/Limitations:
-None
---------------------
American Championship
---------------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Seattle Circuit - 3 Laps
-Trial Mounatin - 3 Laps
-Super Speedway - 6 Laps
-Seattle Circuit II - 3 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 3 Laps
Prize Car:
-Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX Sti Version VI,
-Audi TT 1.8T Quattro,
-Mazda RX-7 Type RS,
-Chevrolet Camaro Race Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 7500
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 200
-Championship: 15000
Regulations/Limitations:
-None
---------------------
European Championship
---------------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Rome Circuit - 3 Laps
-Special Stage R5 - 3 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 3 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 3 Laps
Prize Car:
-Gillet Vertigo Race Car 424,
-Lotus Elise Sports 190,
-Nissan Skyline GTR-V Spec II(R32),
-Mini Cooper 1.3i
Money Prizes:
-1st: 7500
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 200
-Championship: 15000
Regulations/Limitations:
-None
-------------------------------
Gran Turismo World Championship
-------------------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Tokyo Route 246 - 5 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 5 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 5 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 5 Laps
-Special Stage R5 - 5 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 5 Laps
-Seattle Circuit - 5 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway - 5 Laps
-Special Stage R11 - 5 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Nissan Z Concept,
-Mazda RX-8,
-Nissan C-West Retson Silvia,
-Toyota GT-One Road Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 10000
-2nd: 5000
-3rd: 2500
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: -
-Championship: 100000
Regulations/Limitations:
-None
-------------------------------------------------------------
Deutsch Tourenwagen Challenge/German Touring Car Championship
-------------------------------------------------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mounatin - 3 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway - 3 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 3 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 3 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 3 Laps
Prize Car:
-Volswagen New Beetle Cup Car,
-Volkswagen Lupo Cup Car,
-RUF 3400S,
-Opel Astra Touring Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 10000
-2nd: 5000
-3rd: 3000
-4th: 1500
-5th: -
-6th: -
-Championship: 30000
Regulations/Limitations:
-None
------------
FF Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Deep Forest Raceway - 5 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 5 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway II - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota TRD Celica Sports M
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-FF Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
------------
FR Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mountain - 5 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 5 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex SS Version
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-FR Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
------------
MR Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Tokyo Route 246 II - 2 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway II - 2 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 2 Laps
Prize Car:
-Honda NSX Type S Zero
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-MR Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
-------------
4WD Challenge
-------------
Licence Required:
-A Licence
Courses:
-Super Speedway - 5 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway II - 5 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII GSR
Money Prizes:
-1st: 5000
-2nd: 3000
-3rd: 2000
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Regulations/Limitations:
-4WD Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
=---------------------------------=
=- Professional League -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: v-c
------------------
British GT Car Cup
------------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mountain - 10 Laps
-Special Stage Route 5 - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Aston Martin Vanquish V12
Money Prizes:
-1st: 20000
-2nd: 7500
-3rd: 6000
-4th: 5000
-5th: 2000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-------------------------------
Gran Turismo World Championship
-------------------------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Grand Valley Speedway - 10 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway II - 10 Laps
-Special Stage R5 II - 10 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 10 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 10 Laps
-Test Course - 10 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 10 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 10 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 10 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway II- 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car,
-Jaguar XJ220 Racecar,
-Ford GT40 Race Car,
-Opel Calibra Touring Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 35000
-2nd: 10000
-3rd: 7500
-4th: 6000
-5th: 3000
-6th: -
-Championship: 250000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
------------
FF Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Deep Forest Raceway II - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit - 10 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Spoon Civic Type-R
Money Prizes:
-1st: 10000
-2nd: 6000
-3rd: 4000
-4th: 3000
-5th: 1000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-FF Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
------------
FR Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 10 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 10 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway II - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Nismo GT-R LM Road Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 15000
-2nd: 7500
-3rd: 5000
-4th: 3000
-5th: 1000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-FR Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
------------
MR Challenge
------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mountain - 10 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 10 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Tommy Kaira ZZII
Money Prizes:
-1st: 20000
-2nd: 7500
-3rd: 5000
-4th: 3000
-5th: 1000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-MR Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
-------------
4WD Challenge
-------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Special Stage R5 II - 10 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 10 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype
Money Prizes:
-1st: 30000
-2nd: 10000
-3rd: 5000
-4th: 3000
-5th: 1000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-4WD Engined Vehicles Only, Tyre Wear On
---------------------
Spider & Roadster Cup
---------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Grand Valley Speedway - 10 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 10 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Shelby Cobra
Money Prizes:
-1st: 10000
-2nd: 6000
-3rd: 4500
-4th: 3500
-5th: 1500
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Honda S2000 Type V,
-Honda S2000,
-Honda CR-X Del Sol SiR,
-Lotis Elise 190,
-Mazda Eunos Roadster,
-Mazda Roadster 1.8 RS,
-Mazda Roadster RS,
-Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 Kompressor,
-Mugen S2000,
-Nissan Silvia Varietta,
-Opel Speedster,
-RUF 3400S,
-Shelby Cobra,
-Spoon S2000,
-Toyota MR-S S Edition,
-TVR Griffith 500
-only
----------------------
Boxer Spirit Challenge
----------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Deep Forest Raceway II - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit - 10 Laps
-Super Speedway - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-RUF RGT
Money Prizes:
-1st: 15000
-2nd: 7500
-3rd: 4000
-4th: 3000
-5th: 1000
-6th: 500
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-RUF 3400S,
-RUF RGT,
-RUF CTR2,
-Subaru Impreza WRX STi,
-Subaru Impreza Sportswagon STi,
-Subaru Impreza Rally car,
-Subaru Impreza 22B-STi Version,
-Subaru Impreza Sedan WRX STi Version VI,
-Subaru Impreza Wagon WRX STi Version VI,
-Subaru Impreza Rally car prototype,
-Subaru Legacy B4 RSK,
-Subaru Legacy B4 Blitzen,
-Subaru Legacy Touring Wagon GT-B,
-Subaru Impreza LM Racecar
-only
-----------------
Race of NA Sports
-----------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 10 Laps
-Seattle Circui - 10 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Pagani Zonda C12s
Money Prizes:
-1st: 20000
-2nd: 5000
-3rd: 2500
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: -
Regulations/Limitations:
-NA Cars only
-Tyre Wear On
--------------------
Race of Turbo Sports
--------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Mid-Field Raceway - 10 Laps
-Test Course - 10 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-RUF CTR2
Money Prizes:
-1st: 30000
-2nd: 7500
-3rd: 5000
-4th: 2500
-5th: 1000
-6th: -
Regulations/Limitations:
-Turbo Cars only
-Tyre Wear On
----------------------
Gran Turismo All-Stars
----------------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 15 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 15 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 15 Laps
-Test Course - 15 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 15 Laps
-Rome Circuit - 15 Laps
-Seattle Circuit II - 15 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 15 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 15 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 15 Laps
Prize Car:
-R390 GT1 LM Racecar,
-Dodge Viper Concept,
-Toyota GT-One Racecar,
-Subaru Impreza WRX Sti Sedan
Money Prizes:
-1st: 50000
-2nd: 20000
-3rd: 7500
-4th: 5000
-5th: 3000
-6th: -
-Championship: 400000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear on
-------------------------
All Japan GT Championship
-------------------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Grand Valley Speedway - 15 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 20 Laps
-Test Course - 15 Laps
-Special Stage Route 11 - 15 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 20 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 15 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 15 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway II- 15 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 15 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 20 Laps
Prize Car:
-Pennzoil Nismo GT-R,
-Toyota Super Autobacs Apex MR-S,
-Ford Diablo GT,
-Honda Castrol Mugen NSX
Money Prizes:
-1st: 30000
-2nd: 10000
-3rd: 7000
-4th: 5000
-5th: 1000
-6th: -
-Championship: 250000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear on
-------------------
Italian Avant Garde
-------------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Rome Circuit - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Pagani Zonda Race Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 30000
-2nd: 8500
-3rd: 7000
-4th: 5500
-5th: 2500
-6th: 1000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Pagani Zonda C12,
-Pagani Zonda C12S,
-Alfa Romeo 156 2.5 V6 24V,
-Fiat Coupé Turbo Plus,
-Delta HF Integrale Rally car,
-Pagani Zonda Race Car
-only
----------------------
Race of the Red Emblem
----------------------
Licence Required:
-International A Licence
Courses:
-Tokyo Route 246 - 10 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway II- 10 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Nissan Calsonic Skyline
Money Prizes:
-1st: 25000
-2nd: 8000
-3rd: 7000
-4th: 5500
-5th: 2500
-6th: 1000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Nismo 400R,
-Nismo Skyline GT-R S-Tune(R32),
-Nismo Skyline GT-R R-Tune(R34),
-Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II(R32),
-Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec(R33),
-Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec(R34),
-Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II(R34),
-Nissan Pennzoil Nismo GT-R,
-Nissan Loctite-Zexel GT-R,
-Nissan Calsonic Skyline,
-Nismo GT-R LM Road Car (R33),
-Mines Skyline GT-R N1 V-spec(R34),
-Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M(R32)
-only
---------
Vitz Race
---------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Rome Circuit II - 10 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 10 Laps
-Test Course - 10 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 10 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway II- 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota Vitz RS 1.5,
-Toyota Altezza LM Racecar,
-Toyota Supra RZ,
-Toyota Castrol Tom's Supra
Money Prizes:
-1st: 7500
-2nd: 5000
-3rd: 2500
-4th: 1000
-5th: 500
-6th: 300
Championship: 30000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Toyota Vitz RS 1.5
-Toyota Vitz Euro Edition
-only
------------
Elise Trophy
------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Cote D'Azur - 10 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 10 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 10 Laps
-Trial Mountain - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Lotus Elise 190
Money Prizes:
-1st: 15000
-2nd: 7000
-3rd: 3000
-4th: -
-5th: -
-6th: -
Championship: 60000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Lotus Elise 190
-Lotus Motor Sports Elise
-only
-----------
Clio Trophy
-----------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Rome Circuit - 10 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 10 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 10 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway - 10 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-Volkswagen New Beetle Cup Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 15000
-2nd: 7000
-3rd: 3000
-4th: -
-5th: -
-6th: -
Championship: 60000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Renault Clio Sports V6 24V
-Renault Clio Sports Race Car
-only
----------------
Tuscan Challenge
----------------
Licence Required:
-International B Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mountain II - 10 Laps
-Special Stage Route 5 - 10 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 10 Laps
-Seattle Circuit - 10 Laps
-Test Course - 10 Laps
Prize Car:
-TVR Griffith 500
-TVR Speed 12
Money Prizes:
-1st: 50000
-2nd: 10000
-3rd: 5000
-4th: -
-5th: -
-6th: -
Championship: 45000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-TVR Tuscan Speed 6 only
----------------------
Dream Car Championship
----------------------
Licence Required:
-Super Licence
Courses:
-Test Course - 15 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 15 Laps
-Trial Mountain II - 15 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 20 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 15 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 15 Laps
-Cote D'Azur - 15 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota GT1 Race Car,
-Panoz Esperante GTR-1
-Mitsubishi FTO LM Race Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 40000
-2nd: 9500
-3rd: 8000
-4th: 6500
-5th: 3500
-6th: 1000
Championship: 250000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
---------------------
Polyphony Digital Cup
---------------------
Licence Required:
-Super Licence
Courses:
-Trial Mountain II - 15 Laps
-Mid-Field Raceway II - 15 Laps
-Rome Circuit II - 15 Laps
-Special Stage Route 5 - 15 Laps
-Seattle Circuit II - 15 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway II - 15 Laps
-Deep Forest Raceway II - 15 Laps
-Special Stage R11 II - 15 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway II- 15 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 II - 15 Laps
Prize Car:
-TVR Speed 12
-Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version
-Toyota GT-One Road Car
-F094/S F1 Car
Money Prizes:
-1st: 50000
-2nd: -
-3rd: -
-4th: -
-5th: -
-6th: -
Championship: 400000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Normal Cars only(no tuning)
-------------
Like the Wind
-------------
Licence Required:
-Super Licence
Courses:
-Test Course - 20 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mazda 787B
Money Prizes:
-1st: 10000
-2nd: 6000
-3rd: 4500
-4th: 3500
-5th: 1500
-6th: 800
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
----------
Formula GT
----------
License Required:
-Super License
Courses:
-Midfield Raceway - 30 Laps
-Seattle Circuit - 40 Laps
-Grand Valley Speedway - 27 Laps
-Super Speedway - 50 Laps
-Rome Circuit - 28 Laps
-Test Course - 25 Laps
-Laguna Seca Raceway - 33 Laps
-Apricot Hill Raceway - 27 Laps
-Tokyo Route 246 - 25 Laps
-Cote d' Azur - 78 Laps
Prize Cars:
-F687/S F1 Racer (Polyphony 1/2 in the PAL Version)
-F090/S F1 Racer
-F688/S F1 Racer
-F686/M F1 Racer
Money Prizes:
-1st: 30,000
-2nd: 8,500
-3rd: 7,000
-4th: 5'500
-5th: 2,500
-6th: 1,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Tyre Wear On
-Racing Cars Only
=---------------------------------=
=- Rally League -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: v-c
----------------
Tahiti Challenge
----------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Peugeot 306
Courses:
-Tahiti Circuit - 2 Laps
-Tahiti Circuit - 3 Laps
-Tahiti Circuit - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota Celica Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
-----------
Tahiti Maze
-----------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Mitsubishi Evolution VII Rally Car
Courses:
-Tahiti Maze - 2 Laps
-Tahiti Maze - 3 Laps
-Tahiti Maze - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Ford Escort Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
---------------------
Smokey Mountain Rally
---------------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Subaru Impreza Rally Car
Courses:
-Smokey Mountain - 3 Laps
-Smokey Mountain - 5 Laps
-Smokey Mountain - 7 Laps
Prize Car:
-Ford Focus Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
-------------
Rally of Alps
-------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Subaru Impreza Rally Car
Courses:
-Swiss Alps - 3 Laps
-Swiss Alps - 5 Laps
-Swiss Alps - 7 Laps
Prize Car:
-Peugeot 206 Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
-------------------
Tahiti Challenge II
-------------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Ford Escort Rally Car
Courses:
-Tahiti Circuit II - 2 Laps
-Tahiti Circuit II - 3 Laps
-Tahiti Circuit II - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Toyota Corolla Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
--------------
Tahiti Maze II
--------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Mitsubishi Evolution VII Rally Car
Courses:
-Tahiti Maze II - 2 Laps
-Tahiti Maze II - 3 Laps
-Tahiti Maze II - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Subaru Impreza Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
---------------------
Smokey Mountain Rally
---------------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Toyota Corolla Rally Car
Courses:
-Smokey Mountain II- 3 Laps
-Smokey Mountain II- 5 Laps
-Smokey Mountain II- 7 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
----------------
Rally of Alps II
----------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Toyota Celica Rally Car
Courses:
-Swiss Alps II - 3 Laps
-Swiss Alps II - 5 Laps
-Swiss Alps II - 7 Laps
Prize Car:
-Mitsubishi Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
-------------------------
Super Special Route 5 Wet
-------------------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype
Courses:
-SS Route 5 Wet - 2 Laps
-SS Route 5 Wet - 3 Laps
-SS Route 5 Wet - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Citroen Xsara Rally Car
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
----------------------------
Super Special Route 5 Wet II
----------------------------
Licence Required:
-Rally Licence
Opposing Car:
-Subaru Impreza Rally Car Prototype
Courses:
-SS Route 5 Wet II - 2 Laps
-SS Route 5 Wet II - 3 Laps
-SS Route 5 Wet II - 5 Laps
Prize Car:
-Subaru Impreza Rally Car Prototype
Money Prizes:
-Race 1 : 5,000
-Race 2: 10,000
-Race 3: 20,000
Regulations/Limitations:
-Rally Tyres Only
-=================================================-
-= CAR ACQUISITION =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: vi
Want to drive all the cars, or looking for an individual one? You've come
to the right place!
-----
ACURA
-----
Integra Type R - Buy for 27,480
3.2Cl Type S - Buy for 34,230
NSX 1993 - Buy for 94,790
NSX 1997 - Buy for 99,570
RSX Type-S - Win Cote D'Azur Endurance Race
----------
ALFA ROMEO
----------
156 2.5 V6 24V - Buy for 38,910
DB7 Vantage Coupé - Buy for 154,720
Vanquish - Win British GT Cup(PRO)/Gold iA Licence
V8 Vantage - Buy for 455,000
----
AUDI
----
S4 - Buy for 39,730/Win Audi TT Race(AMA)
TT 1.8T Quatro - Buy for 46,580/Win Audi TT(BEG)/Win American Champ(AM)
---
BMW
---
328ci - Buy for 50,690
---------
CHEVROLET
---------
Camaro Z28 - Buy for 22,830
Camaro SS - Buy for 29,350/Win Stars & Stripes(AMA)
Corvette Grand Sport - Buy for 40,010
Corvette Z06 - Buy for 54,000
Corvette C5R - Buy for 1m/Win Super Speedway Endurance/Win Grand
Valley Endurance/50% Game Completion
Camaro Race Car - Win American Champ(AMA)/Win SSR11 Endurance
--------
CHRYSLER
--------
PT Cruiser - Buy for 17,980
-------
CITROEN
-------
Xsara Rally Car - Buy for 350,000/Win SSR5(Rally)
--------
DAIHATSU
--------
Mira TR-XX Avanzato R- Buy for 11,140/Win Race for Turbo Sports(BEG)
Storia X4 - Buy for 13,900
-----
DODGE
-----
Viper GTS - Buy for 78,680
Viper GTS Concept - Win GT All-Star(PRO)/Gold S Licence
Viper GTS-R Team Oreca-Buy for 1m/Win all Amateur races
----
FIAT
----
Coupé Turbo Plus - Buy for 21,030
----
FORD
----
Mustang SVT Cobra R - Buy for 31,150
Escort Rally Car - Win Tahiti Maze(Rally)
Focus Rally Car - Buy for 350,000/Win Smokey Mountain(Rally)
GT40 1966 - Win GT All-Stars(AMA)
GT40 1969 - Win GT World Champ(PRO)
Tickford Falcon XR8 Race Car - Buy for 150,000/Win Super Speedway 150 End.
------
GILLET
------
Vertigo Race Car - Buy for 1.2m/Win European Champ(AMA)/Win Rome 2Hr End
-----
HONDA
-----
CR-X del Sol SiR - Buy for 31,150/Win NA Sports Car Cup(BEG)
Civic SiR-II - Buy for 18,890/Win Type R Meeting(BEG)
Civic Type R - Buy for 19,980
Integra Type R 98 - Buy for 25,160
Accord Euro-R - Buy for 25,330
S2000 - Buy for 33,800/Win Type R Meeting(AMA)
S2000 Type V - Buy for 35,600
NSX Type S Zero - Buy for 98,570/Win MR Challenge(AMA)
NSX Type R - Buy for 99,570/Win Type R Meeting(AMA)
Castrol Mugen NSX GT Car - Buy 1.25m/Win All Japan Champ(PRO)
Raybrig NSX Race Car - Win GT All-Stars(AMA)
Arta NSX - Win All Japan Champ(AMA)/Win SSR11(Endurance)
S2000 LM Race Car - Win Trial Mountain 2Hr Endurance
Mugen S2000 - Win Type R Meeting(AMA)
------
JAGUAR
------
XKR Coupé - Buy for 104,980
XJ220 Road Car - Buy for 780,000/Win Cote D'Azur Endurance
XJ220 Race Car - Win GT World Championship(PRO)
------
LANCIA
------
Delta HF Integrate Rally Car - Buy for 500,000
------
LISTER
------
Storm V12 Race Car - Buy for 1,198,000/Win Trial Mountain 2-Hr Endurance
-----
LOTUS
-----
Elise 190 - Buy for 58,530/Win European Championship(AMA)/
- Win Elise Trophy(PRO)
Espirit V8-SE - Buy for 106,000
Espirit Sport 350 - Buy for 113,540
Motor Sport Elise - Buy for 100,000
-----
MAZDA
-----
Demio GL-X - Buy for 14,660
Roadster MX-5 1989 - Buy for 16,900/Win Clubman Cup
Roadster MX-5 1993 - Buy for 17,000/Win GT World Champ(BEG)
Roadster MX-5 1.8RS - Buy for 22,950/Win Roadster Endurance
Roadtser LS - Buy for 23,280/Win Spider & Roadster Cup(AMA)/
- Gold B Licence
Savanna RX-7 Infini III - Buy for 32,300/Win 80's Cup(BEG)
RX-7 Type RS - Buy for 37,780/Win American Champ(AMA)
RX-7 Type RZ - Buy for 39,980/Win Japanese Champ(AMA)
RX-8 - Win NA Sports(AMA)/GT Worlds(AMA)/Gold A Licence
787B - Win Like the Wind(PRO)/75% Game Completion
RX-7 LM Race Car - Win Dream Car Race(AMA)/Win Tokyo 246 Endurance
--------
MERCEDES
--------
SLK 230 Kompressor - Buy for 55,310/Win Silver Arrow(BEG)
CLK55 - Buy for 93,110
CL600 - Buy for 133,950
CLK Touring Car - Win Silver Arrow(AMA)
----------
MITSUBISHI
----------
Mine's Lancer Evolution VI - Win Turbo Sports(AMA)
FTO GP Version R - Buy for 21,600/Win Japan Champ(AMA)
Lancer Evolution VII RS - Buy for 25,180
Lancer Evolution VI RS - Buy for 25,980
Lancer Evolution IV GSR - Buy for 29,980/Win Japan Chmap(AMA)
Lancer Evolution VII GSR- Buy for 29,980/Win 4WD Challenge(AMA)
Lancer Evolution V GSR - Buy for 32,480/Win all Beginner Races
Lancer Evolution VI GSR - Buy for 32,480/Win GT World Champ(BEG)
Lancer Evolution VI GSR Tommi Makinenen Edition - Buy for 32,780
3000GT VR-4 Turbo - Buy for 43,230
3000GT VR-4 - Buy for 43,320
Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car - Win Evolution Meeting/Win Smokey Mt Rally
Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype - Win 4WD Challenge(PRO)/
- Win Swiss Alps II Rally
FTO 1996 LM Race Car - Win Dream Car Race/Win Cote D'Azur Endurance
------
NISSAN
------
Mine's Skyline GTR-N1 V Spec - Win GT All-Star(AMA)/ Win Trial Mt 2Hr End.
Silvia Varietta - Buy for 27,980
Skyline GTS-t Type M - Buy for 23,850
Skyline 1994 GT-R V Spec II - Buy for 52,600/Win Euro Champ(AMA)
Skyline GT-R spec - Buy for 53,900
Skyline 1999 GT-R V spec - Buy for 55,980
Skyline 2000 GT-R V Spec II - Buy for 57,480
Silvia 1991 K's 2000cc - Buy for 20,360
Silvia 1998 K's 1800cc - Buy for 18,860/Win FR Challenge(BEG)
240 SX K's Areo - Buy for 23,950
Silvia Spec-R Aero - Buy for 25,600
240 SX Fastback Type X - Buy for 24,980
300ZX Twin Turbo 2-Seater - Buy for 39,900
320ZX 2by2 - Buy for 43,980
Pennzoil Nismo GT-R - Buy for 785,000/Win All Japan Champ(PRO)
Z Concept - Win GT World Champ(AMA)/Gold iB Licence
Nismo GT-R LM Road Car - Win FR Challenge(PRO)/Win Seattle Endurance
R390 GT1 LM Race Car - Win GT All Star(PRO)
R390 GT1 Road Car - Win GT World(PRO)/Win Grand Valley 300 End.
Nismo 400R - Win Race of Red Emblem
Nismo Skyline GTR R-Tune - Win GT All-Star(AMA)
Nismo Skyline GTR S-Tune - Win 80'S Car Challenge(AMA)
C-West Razo Silvia JGTC - Win GT World Champ(AMA)/Win Tokyo 246 End.
Loctite Zexel JGTC - Win GT All-Japan Champ(AMA)
Calsonic Skyline JGTC - Win All-Japan Camp(AMA)/Win Laguna Seca End.
Nismo GT-R LM Road Car - Win FR Challenge(PRO)
------
PAGINI
------
Zonda C12 - Buy for 275,010/Win NA Sports(PRO)
Zonda S - Buy for 352,440
Zonda LM Race Car - Win Rome 2Hr Endurance
-----
PANOZ
-----
Esperante GTR-1 - Buy for 2m/Win Dream Car Cup(AMA)/Win Seattle Endur.
-------
PEUGEOT
-------
206 S16 - Buy for 23,360
206 Rally Car - Buy for 350,000/Win Swiss Alps Rally
-------
RENAULT
-------
Clio Sport V6 24V - Buy for 43,400
Clio Sport Race Car - Buy for 300,000/ Win Super Speedway Endurance
-----
ROVER
-----
Mini Cooper 1.3l - Win Lightweight-K Cup/Win European Championship(AMA)
---
RUF
---
3400S - Buy for 76,740/Win German Touring(AMA)
RGT - Buy for 160,000/Win Boxer Spirit(PRO)
CTR2 - Buy for 382,000/Win Turbo Sports(PRO)
-----
Spoon
-----
S2000 - Win Type R Meeting(AMA)
Civic Type-R - Win FF Challenge(PRO)
S2000 Race Car - Win Dream Car Cup(AMA)/Win Stars & Stripes(AMA)/
- Win Grand Valley 300 Endurance
------
SUBARU
------
Legacy B4 RSK - Buy for 26,430
Impreza Sedan WRX STi Ver VI - Buy for 29,190/Win American Champ(AMA)
Impreza Wagon WRX STi Ver VI - Buy for 29,190/Win Japanese Champ(AM)
Legacy Touring Wagon GT-8 - Buy for 29,330
Impreza Sports Wagon WRX STi - Buy for 29,980
Legacy B4 Blitzen - Buy for 30,000/Win Boxer Spirit(AMA)
Impreza Sedan WRX STi 2001 - Buy for 31,980
Impreza Sedan WRX STi 2000 - Win GT All-Stars(PRO)
Impreza 22B STi Version - Buy for 50,000
Impreza Rally Car - Buy for 300,000/Win Taihiti Maze II Rally
Impreza Rally Car Prototype - Win SSR5 Wet II(Rally)/Gold Rally Licence
Impreza LM Race Car - Win Dream Car Race(AMA)
------
SUZUKI
------
Alto Works Suzuki Sports Limited - Buy for 12,220/Win 4WD Challenge(AMA)
Escudo Pikes Peak Version - Buy for 1m/Win all Rallies/
- Win Polyphony Digital Cup
-----------
TOMMY KAIRA
-----------
ZZ-S - Buy for 56,800
ZZ II - Win MR Challenge(PRO)/Win Seattle End.
------
TOYOTA
------
Vitz Euro Edition - Buy for 12,880
Vitz RS 1.5 - Buy for 14,530/Win FF Challenge(BEG)/
- Win Vitz Race(BEG)/Win Altezza Race(AMA)
Celica SS-II Fastback - Buy for 19,700/Win Altezza Race(BEG)
MR-S S Edition - Buy for 19,800/Win MR Challenge(AMA)
Lexus IS - Buy for 20,600
Celica SS-II - Buy for 21,360
MR2 G-Limited - Buy for 23,750
Altezza RS200 - Buy for 24,000
MR2 GT-S - Buy for 27,130
Celica GT-Four - Buy for 32,660/Win GT World(AMA)
Supra SZ-R - Buy for 34,700
Supra RZ - Buy for 44,800/Win Vitz Cup(PRO)
Corolla Rally Car - Buy for 300,000/Win Taihiti II Challenge
Castrol Tom's Supra - Buy for 1,250,000/ Win Vitz Cup(PRO)
Celica Rally Car - Win Tahiti Challenge Rally
GT-One Race Car - Win GT All-Stars(PRO)/ Win Dream Car Champ(PRO)/
- Win Polyphony Cup
GT-One Road Car - Win Tokyo 246 Endurance
Chaser Tom's X540 - Win Altezza Race(AMA)
Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex - Buy for 13,550/Win Sunday Cup
Altezza LM Race Car - Win Altezza Cup(AMA)/Win Vitz Cup(PRO)/
- Win Laguna Seca Endurnace
Autobacs Apex MR-S GT Car - Win Japan Champ(PRO)/Win SSR11 Endurance
Celica TRD Sports M - Win FF Challenge(AMA)
Denso Sard Supra 2000 - Win Japan Champ(AMA)
Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex Shigeno Version - Win FR Challenge(AMA)
---
TVR
---
Griffith 500 - Buy for 62,410/Win TVR Tuscan Challenge(PRO)
Tuscan Speed 6 - Buy for 80,790
Speed 12 - Win TVR Tuscan Challenge(PRO)/Win Polyphony Cup
-------------
VAUXHALL/OPEL
-------------
Speedster - Buy for 38,390
Calibra Touring Car - Win GT World Champ(PRO)
Astra Touring Car - Win German Touring Car Cup(AMA)
----------
VOLKSWAGEN
----------
New Beetle 2.0 - Buy for 15,930
New Beetle RSi - Buy for 70,000/Win Beetle Cup(BEG)
Lupo Cup Car - Win German Touring Car Cup(AMA)
New Beetle Cup Car - Win German Touring Car Cup(AMA)/Win Clio Cup(PRO)
-=================================================-
-= TUNING SCHOOL =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: vii
Sections are by Not Me unless otherwise indicated. A big thanks to Not Me
for teaching us how to tune. I already know how to tune a radio, but a car?
If you wish to ask our resident Tuner a question, go to:
http://cgi.gamefaqs.com/boards/genmessage.asp?board=27212&topic=1374911
THIS IS THE NEW TUNING TOPIC
------------
INTRODUCTION
------------
"I try to be objective and give general ideas, and principles that are the
same regardless. What works for someone else probably won't work for you.
That's why, while I can appreciate the trouble someone may go through to
create all these settings for different cars and posting them, it just
doesn't make sense. Some one that can demolish the game maybe able to pilot
a car on the edge of its traction circle a lot better than a beginner, so if
a beginner comes here and sets their car up according to someone else's post
and can't win with it they'll assume they suck, or the game is just too
hard. Don't buy into the "this is the ultimate setup" bit. Nothing works
exactly the same for everyone."
-Not Me
-----------
RIDE HEIGHT
-----------
Lowering the ride height lowers the center of gravity making the car more
stable in general. Important to remember when lowering the car is to
slightly increase your spring rates (I do it uniformly) to compensate for
the decrease in travel. If you don't increase spring rates, you'll
bottom out and lose speed and handling over quick elevation changes or
curbs. Also, if you notice your car bouncing a lot after you lower it,
increase the bound rate of the shock absorbers (a lot of this stuff can only
be done on the full custom shocks) and like the game says the rebound can be
harder but I usually set it equal to the bound. Now on the other hand, if
your car is jumping i.e. both front wheels coming off the ground over a curb
then your suspension set up is probably too hard, just soften up the springs
and shocks a little to take care of this. Don't be afraid to spend time in
the Run and Settings place learning what works and doesn't for you and your
car.
------------
LIMITED SLIP
------------
Limited slip is kind of a mixed blessing: it locks the wheels together for
powerful acceleration, but it can make turning a nightmare. That's why
they're limited, a fully locked differential is beneficial for straight line
acceleration, but since both wheels must spin at the same speed (because
they're locked together) with high hp you'll push straight no matter how
much you try to turn, as when you corner in a car the outside wheel has to
cover more ground and needs to roll faster, so a limited slip allows you to
unlock the wheels during trailing throttle, braking and mild acceleration.
It all varies depending on how the car is set up. If you are having severe
problems with understeer it could be attributed to having your LSD set to
high.
A limited slip is a device that allows both wheels to work
together when possible, and more importantly allows them to be independent
when necessary. During cornering the outside wheels have to travel a further
distance than the inside wheels so the outside wheel needs to travel faster
to get through the corner with the rest of the car. A fully locked
differential won't allow this. In a fully locked diff, both wheels are
conjoined, or physically locked together. This is great for straight line
acceleration, as both wheels put down max power, however, it induces tons of
understeer, and when you put the power down in a corner, you will lurch
straight ahead, usually into a wall, because the inability of the outside
wheel to outrun the inside wheel is magnified when you put the power down. A
limited slip device like in this game is programmable to allow you to adjust
how much the wheels lock together initially (coasting or cruising), how much
during deceleration (active braking), and acceleration. The numbers are
usually represented in percentages. For example the new Porsche GT2 has an
asymmetrical diff (that means different values for acceleration and
deceleration) with a 60% lock on acceleration and a lower more cornering
friendly 40% on trailing throttle (crusing or coasting) and deceleration.
You can adjust the values in the game higher or lower to do different
things. For example say you're constantly oversteering out of a turn when
you try to put the power down, increase the acceleration number a little at
a time to induce a little less throttle oversteer. The converse is true as
well, if every time you put down the power you rocket straight into a wall,
try turning down the acceleration value and you'll get a little more
independent wheel spin which will induce better turning than before.
Deceleration is the same but hardly as noticeable, you should really have to
only deal with acceleration. If you're having turning problems unrelated to
acceleration you should probably check out your suspension setup.
----------
BRAKE BIAS
----------
A front brake bias tends towards understeer and stability, but a rear brake
bias tends towards oversteer, the more exaggerated the bias, the more
pronounced the effect.
----------
SUSPENSION
----------
If you want stiffer suspension then set the spring rate higher, not the ride
height. The springs are rated in kg/mm, or how many kg it takes to compress
the springs, so the higher you set it the more weight it takes to
compress the springs, so you'll see less weight transfer (it will still be
the same, just not as dramatic) and yaw (how much the car rolls left and
right in turns) will decrease also, but don't get too carried away, increase
it in moderation until you find a setting that works for you.
Bound and rebound are the functions of the actual shock itself. Bound is the
compression of the shock the harder it is the rougher the ride, but better
handling, don't get too hard though or all the weight presses down on the
shock and tries to compress, and it will have no where to go but back up
(every action has an equal and opposite reaction) and then you'll have
a very nervous car. The rebound is decompression, or how fast the shock
returns from its compressed state to normal, the higher this is set the
faster the shock recovers, too high and the car can jump, but too low and it
won't recover fast enough and you'll bottom out your suspension in twisty or
hilly parts. The rebound can be higher than the bound but I like to keep
them uniform.
---------
DOWNFORCE
---------
Downforce does effect your suspension (in real life anyway), but downforce
usually increases with speed i.e. the faster you go the stronger the
downforce (measured in pounds) becomes, so when the downforce is high you
usually aren't going to pay a big penalty for the few mm of compression
you're going to get, because you'll be barreling down a straight. Slightly
increase you spring rates if you increase downforce. Low cars have the best
center of gravity. The lower you can make your car the faster it will
travel, the better it will handle, and the more stable it will be,
conversely though there is a limit, too low and you'll scrape over bumps and
curbs - drop your car incrementally until it handles right for you. When you
lower downforce, increase spring rates, and possibly bound and rebound.
SPELLCHECKED TO HERE ***********
------------
GEARS-PART 1
------------
If you're having trouble launching on a track, but want to keep a shorter
gear setting because the track requires strong acceleration, then make 1st
gear taller by moving the bar to the left. This will allow you to keep a
sporty setting, but make first gear slightly longer creating a little more
speed and a little less acceleration for a better launch. This is not a big
loss either as 1st is rarely used except in an accident or at the beginning.
Again taller gears have smaller numbers for example 4.000 is taller than
4.580, so you can achieve a greater top speed with a 4.000 but less
acceleration.
--------------
TUNING-GENERAL
--------------
The smart tuners order is thus: Make it stop better, then make it handle
better, then make it go faster. Most people (in real life, and my friends
with a GT game) go this way. Make it faster, faster again, faster some more,
oh, now I need to turn better, faster some more. Oh crap, now I can't stop
my 200 mph road rocket, guess I'll have to get some brakes. Seriously good
brakes don't slow you down, they make you faster by allowing you to brake
later and more precisely, then if you handle better you can brake even
later. In real life you have increased your cars performance without even
cracking open the engine. In the game well none of that matters because you
don't have to pay to maintain and fuel these monsters (other than the oil
changes). But seriously you'll find that you can take what seemed like an
equal or lesser car increase the braking and handling characteristics and
dominate without and power increase.
SPELLCHECKED TO HERE ******************************************
------------
GEARS-PART 2
------------
If you're only concerned about top speed then increase them all. Depending
on your hp/kg ratio, you may want to start with something like an overall
set of 32. If you don't get close to hitting redline in 6th before you have
to turn, then lower the total set 1 level at a time until you get close, if
you hit the rev limiter then raise the overall set 1 at a time until you
don't. Once you just barely miss the rev limiter in each straight (I assume
you're on the test track) then you will have the best possible gearing for
top speed with your cars current set up. Any lower and you redline, any
higher and you don't accelerate up to speed as quickly.
-----------------------------------
TURBO & NATURALLY ASPIRATED ENGINES
-----------------------------------
N/A stands for Naturally Aspirated (aspiration is breathing). A n/a car
breathes in its intake air under its own power (most American cars are n/a,
including ones like the Pontiac Trans/Am whose Ram-Air scoops do not make it
forced induction). There are three kinds (that I can think of) of forced
induction: 1.Turbo charging 2: Supercharging 3: NOS (NOX, or Nitros, Nitrous
Oxide). Forced induction means a device or devices are used to help the car
breath. A Turbo charger runs off of the exhaust gases in a car, they spin a
impeller (internal propeller) which is connected to a shaft that turns
another impeller which takes the incoming air (which comes through an air
filter like every other vehicle) and compresses it. Without getting to
complex the way to make more power is to burn more fuel some engines do it
with cubic inches (vettes, vipers, etc...) some do it with forced induction.
Skylines, Supras, etc... when you compress more air into the cylinder more
fuel can be put in as well (air and fuel mix in a ratio called the A/F
ratio). Turbo charging allows you to put a higher VOLUME (versus the same
car without forced induction) of air and fuel into each intake stroke. Thus
producing as much if not more power than a much larger N/A engine.
Superchargers are about the same, except they run off of an engine belt
driven by the crankshaft, instead of running off exhaust. NOS basically
injects more O2 into your intake runner, or directly into each cylinder thus
allowing more fuel to be added.
------------
GEARS-PART 3
------------
If you lower (make the value a smaller number) the first two gears you'll
increase the top speed attainable in those gears, and if you raise (increase
the value of the number) gears 3 and 4 you'll pick up some acceleration in
those gears but the top speed will be lower. So you would come off the line
a little slower then have strong accelration with gears 3 and 4 then return
to normal with 5 and 6. With gears there is no real law of averages whatever
you do to one gear has no effect on another (excluding the final drive which
effects all gears) except that it might make another gear useless, for
example if you make 2nd really tall (low number value) it may have a maximum
speed close to 3rd's, making 3rd all but useless. In general you'll want to
only manipulate the 1st gear or 6th (7th if you have it) until you get
comfortable with the gears. As stated before I like a sporty setting 22-25
overall with a long 6th (lowest possible number value) and I usually leave
the final drive (differential) alone. By the way the Total is the final
drive and your top gear factored together (I think) for all intents and
purposes you don't have to understand it.
-----------
INTERCOOLER
-----------
An intercooler is like a radiator for your intake charge (air about to be
forced into a cylinder). The compression action of a turbo or super charger
increases the temperature of the air, and since cool air is more dense, and
dense air contains more oxygen, forced induction cars sometimes use
intercoolers to lower the temperature of the air after it is compressed but
before it goes into the cylinder. Also cool air is less likely to cause
detonation.
---------
OVERSTEER
---------
If you oversteer your outside drive wheel is out accelerating your inside
wheel and one possible way to correct this is to increase the acceleration
number on the LSD. This is only one possible way, but I prefer it to some
other methods. It's there to be adjusted, just remember some tunings make
radical differences and some are more subtle.
Let me also state that the above is not all inclusive to reasons you may be
oversteering. Suspension set up can have major effect also, but if your
suspension is set up well and you just oversteer a little to much (or a lot)
give the above a try.
-------------------------------
ASM/Active Stability Management
-------------------------------
ASM uses brakes to slow down the wheels that are going to fast. In real life
(and I assume this is how the setup in the game works) a car with ASM senses
your speed, notes your steering input, and calculates what the wheel speeds
for each wheel should be to maintain your dialed in course. If it detects
otherwise it brakes the offending wheel. For instance if you are powering
out of a turn, and start to encounter throttle induced oversteer, than the
computer will recognize the outside drive wheel as the offender (going too
fast and pushing the car steeper into the turn) and will apply brake
pressure to slow it down. In the real world this is all good, but in a
racing game it slows you down, and makes you understeer.
---------------------------
TCS/Traction Control System
---------------------------
TCS can work two ways. Some cars use a method similar to above and apply
brakes to a spinning drive wheel, some cars however detect wheel speed vs
forward speed, and the calculate the gear you are in and will actually
retard (stop or slow) the engine in microbursts, cutting the power on and
off like a light switch to maintain traction (á la Formula 1) the second
method is actually better as it doesn't beat the crap outta the brakes.
-------
Yaw/ESP
-------
A yaw-sensing feature works to increase traction during potential side-
skidding situations. In other words, whereas both ABS and traction control
work on the longitudinal (front-to-back) axis of the vehicle, stability
control operates on the lateral (side-to-side) axis. Bosch's Electronic
Stability Program (ESP), the first such system on the market, began
appearing in 1995 Mercedes-Benz S-Class sedans. It has since become a
popular feature on many upscale vehicles. In addition to discrete electrical
components, ceramic sensors and solenoid valves, stability control systems
typically utilize wheel-speed sensors, steering-angle sensors and a
hydraulic modulator. The key component is, however, something called a
rotational speed sensor (also known as a yaw-rate sensor). Yaw can be
described as "the movement of an object turning on its vertical axis." The
yaw-rate sensor determines how far off-axis a car is "tilting" in a turn.
This information is then fed into a microcomputer that correlates the data
with wheel speed, steering angle and accelerator position, and, if the
system senses too much yaw, the appropriate braking force is applied.
Remember, though, that stability control, like any technology, is not fool-
proof. All vehicles must ultimately obey the laws of physics. Much of the
above information was gleaned from a monstrous article on all kinds of
stability systems. I know its long but it's the best way I know to explain
yaw.
-------------------
Limited Slip-Part 2
-------------------
As best as I understand LSD's, "initial" is the value of wheel lock under a
non accelerating throttle application. For example cruising down a highway
at 65 without accelerating or decelerating would cause the LSD to "relax"
into its much lower initial value. Usually cars do this so you can maneuver
easily around sweepers, through lane changes, etc... The low initial value
allows the wheels to spin more independently which is as discussed above
more beneficial to handling.
I should state, that if you actually modulate a throttle analog style, and
sometimes apply constant power around a turn to maintain a speed, not
accelerating but maintaining a speed, such as going a steady 30-40 mph
around a tight hairpin and you understeer, you can lower the initial value
on the LSD to increase independent wheel rotation thus allowing less
understeer, the converse is true also. This adjustment will be ultra small
in results, but if you're just trying to tune that last little thing, this
may be what you're looking for.
-----------
FISHTAILING
-----------
If you are trying to get your car to snap into the second part of an "S"
turn, but the tail makes you plow wide on the second turn then you could try
this. Lower the spring rate just a touch up front, and maybe stiffen it a
little in the rear. Also if you have downforce adjustable parameters, then
try a little more up front and less in the back. Maybe also lower you
Accelerating value on the LSD. The objective here is to try and get the
front to bite a little more and the rear a little less. Right now your car
has more grip in the butt than the nose (and in all likely hood in less it
is a FF car it always will) but with some of the above suggestions, you can
balance it a little more towards neutral. Another suggestion that I hardly
see people talk about is tire compound. If you want the front to bite harder
and snap the tail around more, then try to run a slightly less grippy tire
in the rear. Tire wear will become an issue at sometime, but it may be
something you can live with, and if you fishtail around the turns than the
rears should wear as fast as the shorter lived front tires.
---------
BODY ROLL
---------
I don't think it is important for the body to roll a lot on a race track. If
you ever get the chance to drive an open wheel racer you'll see how little
roll a car can have. I prefer to keep the suspension as hard as possible,
but still correct mechanically (when I say as hard as possible I don't mean
maximum values). Stiffer stabilizers will make the car sit into a turn
faster. If the body cannot roll on the suspension as much all of the yaw
energy goes to the tires faster giving you a much more true indication of
the line the car will take sooner than a softer suspension. Example if you
are turning through a decreasing radius turn and having to turn harder and
harder the car will "tilt" more and more the harder you turn. On a softer
suspension set up the cars suspension can absorb some of this "tilt" but it
will reach a point when all of the energy transfers to the tires, now this
is true regardless of your suspension set up, but in a firm set up the
energy transfers to the tires more quickly not late in the curve which could
potentially change your line. Also of note, a car in full tilt will raise
its center of gravity, and as we know that's not conducive to handling. So
set'em harder if you want to, but do it incrementally, as dramatic changes
can sometimes spoil you on an idea that may have worked in moderation.
------------
REAR SPRINGS
------------
During braking, there is almost no rear spring effect, as all the weight is
transferring forward (regardless of engine layout), but during acceleration
the reverse is true. Harder springs in the back don't take the weight as
well so the transfer is interrupted, or when you accelerate and your car
goes rocking back a harder spring catches the weight better, and forces more
weight to stay on the front (compared to the same set up with softer rear
springs) obviously we want the front to keep weight because those wheels
direct us. The down side to all this is that since the rearward weight
transfer is reduced, you may spin a little more during WOT (Wide Open
Throttle) acceleration. If this is an aspect you want to tune, try to find a
happy medium, after all to much spinning will reduce your times as bad (if
not worse) as understeering. Cornering force is not so noticeable unless you
have a drastic difference in front and rear spring rates (of course front
and rear should be different because of weight distribution, I am referring
to really drastic differences in stock set up). However, a stiffer spring is
like a stiffer stabilizer (anti-roll bar) and will transfer the Yaw energy
of the car to the tire more quickly (without drastic changes, this won't be
ultra noticeable).
------
CAMBER
------
Camber is the relation of the contact patch to the road. Example, think
about a tire as it sits on the road, looking at the tire from behind or
infront of the car you see that the tire is flat on the ground and that the
side of the wheel and tire are straight up and down. Now lets add some
camber take the outside edge of the tire where it meets the road and adjust
the wheel so that it is slightly off the road. Now the side looks funny, the
top of the wheel and tire are inset (still looking from infront or behind
the car) and the bottom sticks out more, why would I make my car look funny.
Well, when you turn your weight transfers from the center of the car to the
outside, and underbraking or lifted throttle deceleration to the outside
front tire the most. As the weight transfers the outside front tire starts
to lift on its inside (it wants to roll over onto its sidewall) but since we
have made our car look funny with added camber instead of rolling to the
side and lifting the inside off of the road we now push the outside (which
was lifted because of camber) down onto the road, and unless we are sick and
doing something stupid the inside will stay on the road as well. This has
allowed us to use the entire contact patch during a turn, when it is needed
most. Positive camber yields better turning characteristics, but a slight
drop in straight line stability. The rear works the same but should be used
with more moderation, because you need the contact patch there during
acceleration. This is all in reference to a rear drive car, but once you
grasp this you should be able to adapt it to all styles.
-------------
CAMBER(2)/TOE
-------------
Camber helps corner, but reduces top speed, the trade off could be good, or
bad. In the game you can't set negative camber so any numbers I mention are
positive. I like to run a touch of camber something like 2.0-3.0 degrees in
the front, and 1.0-1.5 in the rear. The front setting is more dramatic
because those are really the wheels that do most of the work in a turn, and
you don't want to set the rear really high (in a rear drive car) because
camber causes the contact patch of the tire to become smaller (because the
tires at angle with the road surface) and smaller contact patches mean a
harder time putting down the power. Toe is a little different. I don't like
to do too much with the toe settings, but if you understeer, you can try to
set the rear toe in (a negative number) or visa versa if your problem is
oversteer. Toe should always be changed incrementally as it can really screw
up, or perfect a car.
----------------------
ACCELERATION CORNERING
----------------------
Since technically every time you release the throttle you'll slow down, in
order to maintain a certain speed you must be accelerating when you reapply
the throttle right!?! Here's the kicker though during tapping applications I
would think you're in and out of the throttle so much that both values accel
and decel have something to do with it. I'm not exactly sure how the game
really deals with this particular aspect, but maybe I would mess with the
acceleration value if I were having problems simply because it'll probably
be more beneficial to adjust than the deceleration value. Again if you are
going wide, lower the accel value, and if you oversteer increase it.
------------
TORQUE STEER
------------
Torque Steer plagues FF and 4WD vehicles. Torque steer is caused from the
fact that the turning wheels are pulling also, this is kinda like a
stupifying understeer, and is usually only present in lower gears when you
are in the fat part of your torque curve (like shooting out of corners in
1st or 2nd). Does your car have a VCD, or whatever the acronym in this game
is? If so try this, turn down the amount of power going to the front wheels
a little at a time. I may not remember the name of it but the VCD? controls
how much power goes to the front wheels, if you turn it down a little you'll
experience less torque steer.
-----------
DRIVETRAINS
-----------
(by kebl0632)
FF - Front engine, Front wheel drive; tend to understeer.
FR - Rear engine, Rear wheel drive; tend to oversteer=lots of fun in
drifting.
MR - Mid engine (after the front axel and before the rear axel); best car
for conering since the bulk of the mass is in the middle of the car; tend to
over steer a little and difficult to recover once your tail sticks out too
much on the side.
RR - Rear engine, Rear wheel drive; tends to understeer as the weight of the
car tends to lift it up and not giving the front tyre enough weight for
traction.
-------
FF CARS
-------
Question/Comment(by kebl0632)
i never understand how to drive an FF car properly... it won't steer a lot
of the time with my way of driving. in the end, i ended up using handbrake
turn to get the car's tail around the corner. softening the spring could
help but that puts extra strain on the front tyres...
Answer(by Not Me)
Try this. shorten your midrange gears a little bit 2nd, 3rd, 4th this will
allow them to produce a little more traction frying power in a turn. If you
want to slide you have to get the back to break traction, as you probably
know. What you want to achieve is a controllable slide so if you haven't
yet, stiffen up the springs in the rear just a touch, do the above with
the gears, make sure the front suspension is a little softer than the
rear, add some toe in in the rear, no more than 2 or 3 negative degrees,
maybe turn the rear camber down a little like 0 to 1 degree. One last
thing for a snap around increase your brake bias towards the rear, this
will allow you to start your turn, tap your brakes, and watch the a$$
try to beat you around the turn. Dial these settings slowly and maybe
one at a time, until you get that nice controlled slide.
Question(by Wiseblood)
I'm struggling with the Cruiser. In deep forest two, it pulls. I want to say
understeer, but it's actually powersliding... like the front tires have no
grip. I softened the front springs, and added slight camber to the front...
but still sliding. Not spinning - sliding sideways.
Answer(by Not Me)
Try to toe in the front tires a couple of degrees (toe in is a negative
number) and maybe reduce your rear camber to 0 if its not already, also the
brake thing make work well for you. I don't know exactly what you mean when
you say powersliding, but I guess you mean plowing (no matter how you turn
you slide straight of the track), if you are powersliding in the true since
of the word (4 wheel drift) and sliding off the track sideways, then try to
add some serious camber up front, like 2 or 3 degrees.
---
TOE
---
Here goes my tirade on toe. For this you may need paper or a really good
imagination. Draw a rectangle (in your head or on paper I don't care) This
will be a car as viewed from above (birds eye view). Lets label one end F
and the other R (front and rear). Now do me a favor and rotate the paper or
your mental picture so that f faces up away from you. Draw a box on the
front left side representing the front driver tire, now do the same for the
front left. Keep these "tires" parallel with the body. Now you would have
something like this (sorry it looks crappy but it's the best I can do).
(NOTE: For a better version of these Diagrams go to:
http://cgi.gamefaqs.com/boards/genmessage.asp?board=27212&topic=1145828&page=11
)
"F"
.----
[] []
.l..l
.l..l
.l..l
.----
"R"
Next, draw a dot in the exact center of your car. Now draw a line from the
rear left corner to the dot, do the same from the right rear corner. You
should have something like an upside down V drawn on your car now.
"F"
.----
[] []
.l..l
.l/\l
./..\
/----\
"R"
Sorry about the art again. The rear tires (which I won't draw here) should
now be drawn in along the upside down V line. The tires should run parallel
to the V line, not the car. Once you are done, you have rear toe in.
Obviously this is greatly exaggerated, but you get the point. Now look at
your drawing. Lets pretend our car is going left around a turn. We know that
the outside wheels have to go farther to reach the same point, and in order
to reduce understeer we need that damned out side rear wheel to move
especially fast. With toe in our outside wheel is more pointed in the
direction we want the car to go, thus reducing the amount of distance it has
to travel, and the inside wheel is going the wrong way, this pushes the
inside towards the out and forces the outside around in the direction you
want to go. It may not make complete since at first, but you just have to
look at it long enough. Also, remember that when you are turning the outside
wheels bear more weight so the toe in aspect is even more apparent, and when
the weight gets on that wheel, its going to push tighter around the turn. I
hope that helps, and I am sorry it's long.
----------
TOE-PART 2
----------
Front toe in has the same effect, though not as noticeable, you'll notice a
slightly crisper turn-in and a little less understeer. My model was a FR
car, but toe is the same for all drivetrains, you just have to remember that
a drive wheel behaves differently than a non drive wheel. A possible way to
get a FF car to snap is to toe in the front, and leave the rear alone, or
maybe toe out a little, this will cause the front to bite more crisply, but
cause the rear to want to go straight, and with the right spring rates,
etc... the butt would snap around (it can't keep going straight unless the
ar comes apart). This set up would be horrible on a FR or MR and pretty bad
on a 4WD, but since a FF carries most of its weight on the front axel it can
work.
-------------------
COEFFICIENT OF DRAG
-------------------
I think the game generically deals with it. Like on the F1 cars for
instance, if you increase the front down force, which we all know increase
frontal area, you'll have a lower top speed, but I don't know that it
actually adheres to the correct formula. About the difference in arcade and
simulation, I honestly think that has to do with the fact that it is an
arcade mode. That may be a lame answer, and there may be more to it then
that, but even in the last GT (2) I thought the cars handled easier in
arcade mode.
--------------
GENERAL TUNING
--------------
(by kebl0632)
springs: generally - soft=>stability, hard=>handling
front springs: soften it to allow greater weight transfer in deceleration,
giving front tyre more grip to turn. too soft==>too much grip on the front
relative to the back and you can spin out.
rear spring: soften to allow weight transfer on acceleration==> more grip on
the rear tyres for acceleration. too soft will make the rear feel sluggish
at cornering.
brake balance: front bias==>understeer, rear bias==>oversteer
damper: explained
ride height: lowered for sharper handling. watch out for "bottom out" if set
too low
stabiliers: stiffer for reduced roll in cornering and so sharper handling.
too stiff will lead to any momentum change on one wheel being passed to
opposite wheel. i.e. if you hit a curb, the wheel away from the curb could
lose traction.
camber: increase for cornering stability
toe: toe in(-ve) to induce oversteering and toe out (+ve) to induce
understeer.
gear ratio: increase max acceleration (closer setting) or max speed (wider
setting)
------------------
WEIGHT TRANSFER-FR
------------------
(by kebl0632)
Driving is about balance and weight transfer. in very simple terms, the more
weight you put on a tyre, the more traction it will have (i.e. more power
can be delivered without slipping). when a car is standing still or driving
at a steady speed on a straight road, the amount of weight on the front and
the back doesn't change. when you accelerate, weight begins to move to the
back tyres. so if you want more traction on acceleration, then soften the
rear spring, but at the same time compromising the handling. the same is
true for the front tyres when you decelerate. for example, if you find a car
oversteer easily, the chances are too much weight is transferred to the
front wheels. it could be driving style (braking too late) or too soft a
spring/damper.
------------------
WEIGHT TRANSFER-FF
------------------
You want as little weight transfer as possible in a FF car, keep all of the
weight you can on the front, and maybe give yourself some toe in up front
and a little in the rear. Unfortunately wearing tires are true to form on an
FF car they have to bear a majority of the weight, do all the turning, and
accelerating, as well as most of the braking. Don't boost the rear end so
stiff that there is no weight transfer, or you'll slide forever, of course
in a FF car a slide is easy to catch if the front is going the way you want
it to. Just stand on the gas, and the front will pull the butt around.
-------------------
LIMITED SLIP-PART 3
-------------------
(by vaporseal)
Higher Limited Slip settings mean less discrepancy in wheel spin. Certainly
I turned the accel down at one point, and found my car was oversteering
more. Turned it back up, and it was a bit stiffer. Also, another car of mine
(set for the test course) got extra acceleration out of turning it way up.
----------------
TOE ANGLE-EUROPE
----------------
(by kebl0632)
"When a car is standing still, it will almost certainly have a front toe
angle. If you have a positive toe angle (toe-in), the front wheels will be
pointing inwards (towards each other) slightly. A negative toe angle and the
wheels will be pointing outwards slightly (toe-out)."
---
RPM
---
(by kebl0632)
RPM is an intrinsic quality of the engine. engine with high rpm is "better"
as it would have more power stroke (more explosions) per minute and hence
more powerful. to take an example, a typical 4 cylinder engine has a rev
limit of around 5-6 thousand. while a honda s2000, with a 4 cylinder engine
also, redlines at 9000.
(by Not Me)
RPM is an acronym for Revolutions Per Minute. A revolution is one complete
rotation (360 degrees) of the crankshaft (the part of the engine the pistons
connect to via the connecting rods). The more RPM's the better, but it takes
a special design of engine to rev really high.
------------
DISPLACEMENT
------------
(by kebl0632)
Displacement is the distance that the cylinder head travels. so increasing
displacement would effectively increase the size of the engine and so a more
powerful engine.
(by Not Me)
Displacement is the cubic space of the cylinders summed together, for
instance my car has a 3.0L (Liter) I6 (inline 6 cylinder) engine, each
cylinder therefore has a displacement of 0.5L. In general more cc (cubic
centimeters) or ci (cubic inches) or L (liters) an engine displaces the more
air/fuel mixture can be consumed at each power stroke. A quick side note
3000cc is equivalent to 3.0L so 1000cc is 1L. Displacement is directly
connected to RPM's. The higher the displacement of an engine, the lower it's
maximum RPM's, without getting to complex, this is because higher
displacement equals more reciprocating (rotating) mass. For example a new C5
Corvette (street car) has a 5.7L engine (346 ci, or 5700cc), and makes
around 350 hp, where as a F1 car uses a smaller displacement (also like the
corvette, naturally aspirated) 3.0L engine, but makes 800-900 hp, the
difference is in the RPM's. A Corvette maxes out at around 6500-6750 RPM's
or so where as a F1 car goes to 18000 RPM's. What I am getting at is there
is a trade off in displacement and RPM's.
------
TORQUE
------
Torque is twisting force. In cars torque is measured in ft/lb (in the US
anyway), and 1 ft/lb of torque is the energy required to lift 1lb, 1ft off
of the floor. Torque is the grunt or the power in a vehicle, but Horsepower
is responsible for speed (sort of). For instance a Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel
produces 500 or so ft/lbs of torque, but is nowhere near as quick, or fast
as a sports car with half of that torque, so big torque doesn't always mean
quick, but in a car, usually the more torque the more low end tire frying
power available.
------------------
UNSTABLE CORNERING
------------------
You could try to soften your spring rates. Also, try to decrease your rear
brake power. If the brakes are high in the rear, then that will give you a
very unstable car. I shouldn't say "very unstable", but it will give you a
car that is harder to control at it's limit, and a car that snaps over if
you brake a little while even slightly turning at the speeds you're talking
about. 147mph or so is enough to amplify quirks that don't appear at lower
speeds. Lastly, maybe some toe changes are in order. It seems like your
front has great turn-in, so great in fact that it is violently yanking the
back over and causing it to lose traction. Oh, and maybe, it may not be able
to be corrected without, sacrificing some of the characteristics that you
like at lower speeds. Sometimes you just have to give, and let up a little,
because your car can't be set up perfectly to handle every kind of situation
equally.
--------------
ANTI-ROLL BARS
--------------
(by SeiGe Nihon)
Anti-roll bars are essential in any high performance suspension vehicle (I
think it is called "stabilizers" in GT3, but don't quote me on it). It's job
is to reduce body lean (or roll) in a turn. This is important because
excessive body roll can result in camber changes in a car's tires. And
everyone knows what that means (reduced traction *ahem*).
This is a given: The larger the contact patch between the tire and the road,
the better the traction. The more traction there is, the faster you can go!
Camber is basically the measure of how much the wheels of a car tilt away
from a vertical plane. Loss in camber (aka negative camber) means the top of
the wheels tilt in towards the center of the car and positive camber means
the top tilt outwards.
As your car leans during a turn, they undergo either camber changes
(dependent on the turn). In ideal situations, which means that you should
forget about struts, wishbones, rods, etc, your car would always maintain a
constant camber throughout a turn. That way, you would have maximum traction
(which means maximum speed!). However, that is just ideal situations.
But since this is GT3 and we can just about customize everything, here I go!
To minimize camber changes, you could stiffen the springs. The only thing
wrong with this is that you need more dampers (struts or shocks) to function
properly. Not to mention your ride wont drive nearly as smooth. Since price
isn't an option here, we can tweak and tune to our hearts content. The
springs of the suspension is used to equal out the car's front to rear and
not side to side, thats why we have anti-roll bars! Tad-dah! Took me a while
to reach here, so take a break and give yourself a pat on the back.
The anti-roll bar is connected to your suspension (its kind of U-shaped). So
when you turn (lets say a left handed turn), the right tire travels up, and
the left tire travels down. The anti roll bar twists with the suspension
(right side of the U is pulled up with the suspension while the left side is
pulled down). Since it a connected with the chassis, it has to react and
twist back on the suspension with an equal force. The result is that the bar
tends to resist the roll of the car during a turn (Ah ha!). And that is why
this sucker is called a "Anti-Roll Bar" (don't listen to those bums who call
it anti-sway bars, roll bars. stabilizer bars or even no roll bar).
Making the front anti-roll bar stiffer usually results in understeer.
Likewise, decreasing the stiffness would cause oversteer. Cars with only a
front bar will tend to understeer while cars with only a rear bar will
oversteer.
This is why most if not all autocross racers make changes to the bar to
greatly affect the handling of their vehicles.
Not only that, the stiffness if also dependent on the diameter of the bar
(fourth power of the bar diameter). So if you have a 15mm bar and you want
to switch to a 17mm bar, you would be increasing the bar stiffness of that
end of the car by:
17(4th power)/15(4th power) = 1.649 or 65%
A moderately understeering car would become dangerously oversteering now.
Simplified: You will regret this change you crazy fool!!!
You can also change the location of the pick-up point of the bar. So if you
move the pick-up point inward of a bar 2 inches on a 10 inch U, that would
mean:
2/10 = .2 or 20% (increase in stiffness)
Luckily, most factory anti-roll bars aren't adjustable. So your only
option is really a aftermarket supplier.
When you take a turn, the only thing resisting body roll is the anti-roll
bar at the front and rear of the car. When the body rolls, the bar twists
and goes into the suspension (which pushes the outside tires down into the
ground while pulling up the inside tires).
If you only had an anti-roll bar in the front, the outside front wheel has
to resist all of the body roll. If everything was equal, the tire with the
heaviest load on it would begin to slide first. So the front bar only car
would understeer.
As a result, if you had a car with only a rear anti-roll bar, all the
cornering load would be on the rear wheel, thus you would oversteer.
However, there are many things that also change the outcome of a car's
handling. Like I said before, this is based on ideal situations, which means
we are neglecting several things (such as springs and shocks(which also
affect body roll)).
---------
POWERBAND
---------
Powerband, hmm. Well some people say it is from your engines peak torque
rating until redline, and some say it is from peak horse power to redline. I
think it is the former, because most cars don't make full power until rather
high in the rpm range. You can't manipulate the powerband of an engine
(without changing parts) in the game, so you use the gear ratios to maximize
the effective use of it.
----------------------
REAL-LIFE RACING GEARS
----------------------
Racing teams, can and do change every gear, I'll use F1 as my example. Alot
of F1 teams run a 7spd transmission (they are allowed between 4 and 7
forward gears plus reverse) and manipulate every gear, they also change the
final drive gear (differential). There objective is to find the optimum
gears for a particular venue. The optimum gears can be defined as thus: Gear
ratios allowing a driver to keep the engine in its powerband at all times.
In reality, there is some trade off. Lets look at Hockenhiem (traditionally
the fastest F1 circuit with speeds of 230 or so). Hockenhiem is largly a
flat out circuit (flat out means wide open throttle driving); however, it
has a twisty section that runs through the stadium around the Start/Finish
line. The twisty section is long enough to warrant quick acceleration over
top speed, but the rest of the course demands long legs. The solution is to
give a car a short gear set in the primary gear (1st through 3rd or 4th)
with the gears slightly getting a little longer than a normal short range
set as you climb, and then giving the top gears moderately longer ratios
ntil 7th which should be long enough that the car is constantly
accelerating, and never peaking, but short enough that it comes ever so
close to peaking on the longest straight. Any shorter and you're not going
as fast as you could, and longer and you're not accelerating as hard as
possible. Now, you can mathematically calculate the speed a car can obtain
in a given gear if you know a few variables. Take an engines maximum RPM's
(18,000 in a modern F1 car) divide that by the gear ratio, let's say 3.00
for math simplicity to get the number of time the drive pin (drive shaft in
a normal car) turns at maximum RPM's. 6,000 turns of the pin at redline, now
we divide this number by the final drive ratio, let's say 3.000, that gives
us a total of 2,000. 2,000 what you say, 2,000 turns of the half-shafts that
connect the wheels to the transaxle, so know if you know the circumference
of the wheel you can figure how many mph you can obtain by multiplying the
circumference by 2,000. I'm not sure, but I think the diameter of a F1 tire
is 20 inches or so. To find circumference we multiply pie times the
diameter. 62.83 inches per revolution, so at max rpm's in said gear, the car
is covering 125663.706 inches per minute which is 118.999 mph. Obviously
this wouldn't be 1st or 2nd gear because it would accelerate slowly from a
standstill a first gear is more like 6.000 or higher (higher numbers equal
shorter gears). Teams mathematically calculate speed for gears, they also
use this speed to determine where the next gear should be, for instance. If
at 18,000 rpms in the above gear you're going 119 mph a gear twice as tall
in the transmission 1.500 would net the same speed at half the rpm's, 9,000.
The powerband on an F1 engine is between 13,000 and 18,000 rpm's, so 1.500
would not be a good gear, because when you shift, the car is going to go
down to 9,000 rpm's and drop below the powerband.
-----------------------------
SHELBY COBRA BRAKING PROBLEMS
-----------------------------
Shelby Cobra's actually carry most of there weight on the rear axle, even
though they are FR. Technically speaking, the engine is almost completely
behind the front axle, so it should be a front of the car mid-engine design.
You may find a set up similar to what you would use in a MR car to be more
conducive. Turn down the brake settings, as the higher they are the harder
the breaks grab. Also, because of the weight distribution, it is imperative
that you break before the turn, as trail braking in a MR car is tricky at
best, and treacherous at worst. Lots of people seem to have trouble with
this car, myself included when I first got one in GT2, I think it stems from
the fact that people tune it like a traditional FR. Once you get the car
dialed in, it should be a great car. Also consider, this car is yestertech,
and is not going to handle like a modern high performance car, and in the
spirit of keeping the game semi-realistic, the car is quirky, and twitchy
just like the originals.
---
ABS
---
Comment:(by GTRacer)
Notice how the setup menu and manual say the brake controller is an ABS
system? Sure seems to lock up a lot for ABS... I've never found settings
that really feel like the car is stopping on the limit all the time
(straights or corners). Anyone?
Response:(Not Me)
I would agree, if it's ABS, I sure can't tell. I think if you set the brake
controller way down, it acts like ABS, but ABS is really effective in real
life, and allows most cars to actually stop faster than the same car without
ABS. Unlike ASM and TCS, ABS hinders you in no way in real life. If these
cars had sports brakes and ABS, they should stop on a dime, but sometimes
they don't.
--------------------
Extreme Acceleration
--------------------
If you want massive acceleration, but no spinning out you'll have to raise
your LSD accel rate, the trade off is a little understeer, try to find a
compromise that you're happy with. Tires in this game suck. The better
racing tires really do grip well, but they wear completely, unrealistically
fast. I really hope to see a drastic improvement in tire wear in the next
game. I don't know what to tell you, I get about 10 laps out of a medium set
of slicks, but just barely. Try not to slide, or brake during turning too
much (not that you do, I am just making suggestions). Standing hard on the
breaks wears tires quicker than modulating into full breaking, also running
on the curbs, smacking armco's and walls, and running on grass or dirt
really seems to affect tire life. Never under any circumstances run the
super grippy short lived tire, unless there is no tire wear in the race
you're in. Also, if you have turned TCS completely off, try turning it to 1,
as that sometimes will help increase tire life without interfering too much
with you driving style.
---------------
DOWNFORCE / CoD
---------------
(by Not Me, DaFrog)
Light cars do have more trouble launching. Well maybe, F1 cars get off the
line like a beast, as do top fuel dragsters and they are both super light.
CoD, Cx, etc... has no regard to weight. A school bus made of Carbon Fibre
has the same Cx as the same bus made of lead, one is just heavier. I think
we're in agreement on that, maybe I worded it poorly, but I never said
weight had to do with Cx. I also never said the lighter car would be faster,
I just said it would handle better and stop easier, and in general be the
better of the cars. Or did I? Lastly, most cars are designed to put out most
of their downforce at a speed common to their use. An F1 car doesn't have no
downforce and then suddenly at 200mph generate 1500lbs of it.
-NotMe
For most of the race the lighter car would be travelling faster, it would
not always be true. Now in game terms, losing a second or two at launch is
not a big deal, but losing tens of miles an hour on the straight is. (In
case anyone is not following my rationale/thinks I am nuts - its going
faster because at that point ~all the power is used to offset the drag, the
drag is the same, but the power is double. Of course, lighter cars tend to
be smaller and have less drag too, but probably not half as much. I assume
Cx is related to area so is easily < 1/2, but not when you start adding
spoilers etc to add downforce as they are going to be a major part of drag
causing components on both cars. )
-DaFrog
In essence, downforce is a force that's pushing down on the car, and
therefore also on the tires. In a way, this is like 'free grip': it doesn't
require any weight shifting, that's also why most of the time, the
distinction is made between 'mechanical grip' and 'aero grip'. It isn't
totally free though: more downforce also means more drag, i.e. more wind
resistance, so you'll always have to find the best possible compromise
between grip and aerodynamical drag. So again we agree here that adding
downforce increases drag. The drag coefficient is a number that
aerodynamicists use to model all of the complex dependencies of drag on
shape, inclination, and some flow conditions. This equation is simply a
rearrangement of the drag equation where we solve for the drag coefficient
in terms of the other variables. The drag coefficient (Cd) is equal to the
drag (D) divided by the quantity: density (r) times half the velocity (V)
squared times the reference area (A). A lot of people only use the drag
formula, but coefficient of drag is what you need.
-NotMe
------------------
DRIFTING/OVERSTEER
------------------
Well, if you want it to oversteer; I think that's desirable for drifting,
you could try to increase your rear stabilizer, and decrease your front one.
Try to set the rear toe in, and set the front camber a little higher. Turn
off (or way down) the ASM and TCS, also lower the Acceleration value on the
LSD, maybe the decel and intial values also. Lastly you could try to put a
less grippy tire in the rear, and stiffen your rear spring rates to keep
weight on the front tires. Obviously don't do all these things at once, and
try not to be to extreme, just tweak a little at a time. All of the above
things will cause your car to understeer less. For drifting, you probably
want either a neutral car, or one that oversteers.
---------------
TYRES/OVERSTEER
---------------
I use different tires sometimes. For instance if I have a car pretty much
the way I want if but it oversteers just a little too much, but changing the
suspension completely mucks it up, then I'll put a slightly slicker tire in
front. That kinda makes it balance out a little. You can also do the reverse
for an understeering problem.
-------------
GEAR SHIFTING
-------------
The best time to up shift, is when you'll be making more power in the next
gear than you are in the current gear. Horsepower is usually charted like an
arch, on the left of the arch you have low hp and low revs. The power climbs
linearly (in a N/A car) until it peaks, then it starts to drop off. The drop
off is usually slower then the accent though. I'll make a theoretical car
here for example. We have a car that makes peak power at 8000 rpms, it rev
limits at 10,000 rpms. Say at 8000 the car makes 400hp, and by the time it's
at 10,000 it's down to 300hp (dramatic, I know, it's just an example). Now
lets say when you shift from 2nd to 3rd, you know you'll drop around 1500
rpms. Now we'll say at 7000 rpms the car makes 350hp. If we stay in 2nd till
redline, we're wasting time, because at 9500 rpms where we're probably
making 325hp, we could upshift and hit 7000 rpms with the next gear and be
making 350hp. If you know approximately how many rpms you drop with a gear
change (usually is pretty consistent from gear to gear with a normal setup)
and you know the power curve of a car you can precisely set mental shift
points for optimum power at all times.
In real life a car produces peak torque before it produces peak horsepower.
For example a new 2002 Corvette ZO6 produces 400 lb/ft of torque at 4800
rpm, but produces peak horsepower at 6000 rpm. Usually you base your shift
on peak horsepower. I can't remember off hand, but in all cases, it should
be close to redline, and the game may list this as peak torque?!, but I
think that's a flub in the translation to English. You'll want to shift
after peak power, somewhere between the peak and rev limiter. Experiment
with different cars, if you notice that the car is barely accelerating 1000
rpms before redline, the go ahead and up shift, if it's still pulling hard,
then push all the way to redline. Usually N/A cars can be shifted before
redline, where as forced induction cars usually pull hard all the way to
redline, but that is a generalization, and not the absolute rule.
------------
LATE BRAKING
------------
You'll want really stable brakes if you're a late braker. I am, and I
usually set my brakes with a front bias, that way if I happen to start
turning with my brakes still applied, my car doesn't freak out. For getting
on it strong at the apex (mid point of a turn) you'll want to set you
acceleration value as high as you can on the LSD, not the maximum value,
just as high as you can take it without it causing you to violently
understeer. Just turn it up, one notch or so at a time until you can stand
on the gas pretty good, and not spin out. Unfortunately, there is no generic
setting that makes all cars great; however, there are a few settings that
work decent on most cars. For the F1's I just turn up the down force a
little, and turn the ASM off, and the TCS off or down to 1. Things to keep
in mind with the Viper is, even though the engine is in front, a Viper
carries more than 50% of its weight on its rear axle, so it has a weight
distribution closer to that of a mid-engine car.
---------
TYRE WEAR
---------
All forms of friction wear tires. Acceleration, deceleration, and lateral
acceleration. Increased downforce, will increase tire wear under
acceleration, deceleration, and may slightly increase it during turning, as
you'll be taking the turns at a higher speed, and that reduces the benefit
of reduced lateral movement. Lower down force can cause the rear tires to
wear faster if you don't moderate your throttle usage, and due to increased
lateral movement can also wear tires quickly; however, one way is bound to
work better for you than the other. Experiment to figure out which way
generates longer tire life for yourself. Again, tires in this game suck. I
like tire wear, but they're going to have to get more realistic. What kind
of crappy tire wears out in 5 laps in real life that you would ever see on a
racecar?!? Maybe a drag racing slick, but even the worst of the slicks is
only good for 10-20 laps tops! Where as the F1 grooved dry tires last for at
least half of a 70+ lap race in real life. Based on this, I guess I am to
believe that there tires are more akin to the sports tires. I doubt it!
--------------
SUPRA STEERING
--------------
First off, try to lower your ASM and TCS if they're not already low. Some
people say turn them all the way off, and I do that for some cars, but if
your not comfortable turning them all the way off, just turn them down a bit
(as low as you're comfortable). Don't go from 10 to 0 and not expect to have
problems though if you have always driven with them up. Try to soften your
front stabilizer maybe a point or two at most. Give yourself a little toe
in, in the rear. and maybe a little more camber in front. If you have a
brake balancer, and you are breaking through the turns, then lower the front
(or raise the rear) bias, and that will cause you to oversteer a little more
during trail braking. Lastly, but definitely not least, don't underestimate
the importance of the LSD device. Turn down the acceleration, and
deceleration rates to induce better turning characteristics. Try all these
ideas in moderation, and give them a chance. Also, do them on or two at a
time, all at once will drastically affect your handling. Remember all these
things will cause the car to understeer less, and in some cases induce
oversteer at the extremes.
------
CASTER
------
Even though you can't adjust it in the game the 3rd and often overlook
measurement in alignment is caster. Caster is the horizontal movement of the
wheel to affect the vertical axis. Think of this, you're looking at a car
from the side, look at the front wheel. See the vertical shock in your mind
that's behind the wheel? The bottom of the shock attaches close to the
center of the wheel, the top attaches to the car chassis under the hood
right. Take the wheel and move it towards the front of the car in the wheel
well, this makes the shock at an angle now with the bottom closer to the
front than the top. This is a positive caster, the reverse would be a
negative caster. Since you can't adjust it in the game I won't talk much
more, but it can have a drastic affect on camber the more you turn the
wheels.
---
VCD
---
It controls how much of the engines power is sent to the front wheels. For
instance if your engine makes 400hp and the VCD is at 50%, then 200 horses
pull at the front, and 200 push from the rear. In most 4wd cars the VCD is a
variable thing, i.e. the above car would normally route most if not all of
it's power through the rear tires, but if slip is detected, up to 50% of the
available power could be sent to the front.
---------------
REAR BRAKE BIAS
---------------
A rear bias will not effect weight transfer, what it does is causes the rear
brakes to lose traction faster than the front. What you're striving for is a
controlled loss of traction. The decrease in rear traction allows the front
to assert more control over the car. A front bias does the opposite, and
when the front wheels lose traction, the car goes straight. In real life,
and in the game if you pull the emergency brake and turn, you'll spin out.
That's because the emergency brake completely locks the rear, and only the
rear wheels up. By setting a higher rear bias, you achieve a controlled
version of this which allows the car to understeer less. Yes, you could also
try to soften your front spring rates. Stiffen your rear stabilizer by 1 or
so also, this will help combat understeer also, especially at high speed.
You can also try to put a less grippy tire on the back for better turn in.
-=================================================-
-= DRIVING SCHOOL =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: viii
----------------
BASIC TECHNIQUES
----------------
(Courtesy of the Gran Turismo 2 game manual)
ACCELERATING
------------
Accelerating makes the car move more quickly, so the best thing is to keep
your foot pressed down on the accelerator as much as possible. In an
automatic car (AT) the best thing to do is just put your foot to the floor
and GO! In a manual car (MT) it goes without saying that you will have to
maximise your revs at each gear change and accelerate through the gears,
but once you get used to that there should be no problem. The difficult
thing is to get away from the start line quickly, and this is particularly
true in real-life MT cars. If you rev the engine and engage the clutch too
wuickly the wheels will spin. When this happens, the car will not move
forward smoothly, but if you don't get any wheelspin at all it may be a
sign that your revs are not high enough and you will not get a fast start.
The trick is to keep the revs reasonably high and to half-engage the clutch
rather than letting it out all at once. You should also keep the revs
steady until the clutch is engaged - don't keep revving the engine up. The
revs will vary depending on the car, the road conditions and the wheels, so
you will need practice to improve your driving skill and get the hang of
using them properly.
BRAKING
-------
In sports driving, the most difficult and sensitive technique is braking.
On a circuit, if you cannot reduce speed quickly, you will be unable to
get a fast time.
Most beginners are unable to brake hard enough at first: in order to make
the best use of the brake, you need to put your foot down hard. While you
are still learning how to use the brakes properly, you should brake as hard
as you possibly can.
More details will be given in the section on rear wheels, but when the
wheels lock it means you have braked too hard. Your aim is to brake as hard
as you possibly can without locking the wheels.
FF - Front Engine, Front Drive
------------------------------
FF cars have the engine loaded in the front and front wheel drive. FR cars
(front engine, rear drive) used to be the norm in most sedan cars, but FF
cars are more spacious because there is no need for the mechanical parts
transferring the power from the engine to the rear wheels, and now FF is
the more popular. However, in FF casr the weight is all at the front so
when turning left and right and when accelerating or decelerating the focus
is always on the front wheels and it is therefore difficult to balance FF
cars as sports cars. In spite of that, FF cars have been used as sports
cars for quite some time now and due to the more recent advances in
technology, sports hatch-backs such as the Civic have become very popular.
In addition, they can be made to go faster than second class FR cars.
However you should be careful of understeering in FF cars because much of
the weight of the vehicle is on the front wheels, and if you drive for long
periods whilst under-steering the front tyres get hot and therefore begin
to lose their grip. The best way to avoid this is to accelerate and steer as
smoothly as you can. The main merits of FF cars are that they do not spin
easily and they run well even on wet roads.
FR - Front engine, rear drive
-----------------------------
FR cars are rear wheel driven with the engine at the front. In recent years
they have declined in popularity as sedan cars, but as sports cars they
have good balance and are still very popular. There are two reasons for
this: for one thing, the front and rear weight balance is close to 50/50;
also, as the steering is handled by the front wheels and the power comes
from the rear wheels, a good driver can use all four wheels to their full
advantage. This means that FR cars are comparatively easy to handle and
to control, and can help to improve your driving technique. In addition,
they are also the best cars in which to handle drifting. So, if you learn
the basic skills of driving this car will respond well and will be a lot
of fun to drive.
Both the front and rear wheels have their own particular role in FR cars,
so neither one nor the other will get hot, and you don't need to alter the
way you drive to react to particular conditions. Also, one final merit is
that an FR car will slow down gradually rather than suddenly grinding to
a halt.
MR - Middle engine, rear drive
------------------------------
As you will probably know from F1 racing cars, if it's speed you're after
the best car to go for is one with the engine in the middle. Taking the
largest, heaviest part of the car, the engine, and placing it at the centre
of the vehicle, allows you far greater control when cornering.
An MR car is one with a middle engine and rear wheel drive. The nose of
the car is light, which means that the steering is very sensitive,
responding to the lightest touch. On top of that, the engine, being placed
toward the middle of the car, means that the weight is displaced over the
rear wheels, and this provides greater power on the road. Also, even if
you brake hard, the MR car will not skew out of control. As a sports car
the MR is undoubtedly the most suitable for the job, but the reality is
that they are difficult to drive.
First of all you have to make sure the car is properly balanced, and whilst
it is excellent for driving to the very limits when cornering, this car
is very unforgiving of a driver's mistakes. However, if you can drive well
it can be superbly fast, and this is why the MR is undoubtedly the car
of choice for the experts.
4WD - 4-wheel drive
-------------------
As everyone knows, a car has four wheels. And no doubt you will agree that
in order to get the most speed from a car, four wheels being driven by the
engine is better than two. Taking the brakes as an example, years ago brakes
were fitted either to the front or back, but now all vehicles have brakes
fitted to all four wheels. The 4WD car operates on the same principal, that
4 is better than two, especially when driving on snow, slippery ground or
rough terrain. For this reason, the 4WD is rapidly becoming a popular
vehicle for use on paved or dirt roads, and particularly for rallies, and
more recently the 4WD sports car is being adopted for use on circuits and
mountainous terrain too. The more powerful the engine, the more suitable
it is to a 4WD car. However, the mechanism that transfers the power from
the engine to each of the four wheels is extremely complex and the
different wheel speeds required for cornering can be problematic for 4WD
vehicles. It is particularly easy to under-steer in a 4WD car and this is
certainly a problem for a sports car. Howeverm recent developments in
electronic technology have meant that the newer 4WD cars are a lot
easier to handle. Therefore, taking its fantastic traction into account
the 4WD is an extremely powerful sports car indeed. Especially in rain or
other slippery conditions, the 4WD is much safer than its 2-wheel drive
counterparts, and even leaves the powerful MR standing.
TYRES
-----
Perhaps the most important part of any sports car is its tyres. The tyres
are the things that connect the car directly to the road surface and
propel the car along the road, so if they are not up to the job it doesn't
matter how powerful the engine or how hard the suspension of the car.
Every movement on the road (be it accelerating, decedlerating or turning)
is controlled by the grip of the tyres on the road surface. The power of
that grip can be represented by a graph (see diagram below). The vertical
component of the graph represents acceleration and deceleration whilst the
horizontal component represents turning left and right. There is a limit
to the ammount of grip a tyre has and exceeding that limit causes the tyre
to slip. The area within the circle on the graph represents the grip limit
of a tyre on the road, whilst the circumference of the circle itself
represents the very edge of that grip limit. When a tyre begins to slip,
as you probably know already, there is often a screeching or squealing
sound. A gentle squeal is roughly indicative of when a tyre reaches the
very limit of its grip capability on a road surface, but a loud, ear-
splitting screech means that the grip limit has been exceeded.
Naturally it is important to be able to use your tyres to their limit in
order to get the most speed from your car. To make the car brake as
quickly as possible, you will need to be able to take the tyres right to
their grip limit (point C on the graph). However, if you brake too hard
(i.e., if you exceed point C on the graph), you will skid or the wheels
will lock, you will lose control of your braking and your stopping
distance will be greatly increased. In addition, if you exceed the grip
limits when cornering (points B and D on the graph) you will lose control
of the steering and may even spin out of control altogether.
The most difficult part to judge is the other areas within the circle on
the graph besides the axis lines. The tyres are not there simply to
enable you to speed up and slow down, or to turn left and right. If you
are trying to brake whilst turning right or trying to accelerate and turn
left, you are not just using the left / right grip capabilities of your
tyres but also the acceleration / deceleration grip capabilities. If you
brake hard whilst driving in a straight line, the grip limit of your
tyres is point C on the graph. However, if you brake hard whilst turning
right, even slightly, the grip limit of the tyres shifts towards point B.
In other words, the brakes are driving in a slight line. Therefore, if
10% of your brake power is being used to counteract your right turn, your
remaining effective braking power is only 90%. What this menas is that in
order to use 100% of your braking power none of that braking power should
be wasted turning left of right. In effect this means that if you are
braking whilst turning left or right, your braking should be slightly
greater than usual. The same thing is true when you are accelerating and
turning.
So, driving sports cars is not simply about accelerating, decelerating or
turning left and right - it is a combination of all these things. However
in order to drive as fast as possible you need to be driving to the very
limits all the time. This means that you should try your very best to
drive the car to the edge of the limits on the graph circle.
A
-|-
-' | '-
D-----------B
-_ | _-
'|'
C
WEIGHT SHIFTING
---------------
So now you understand the vital importance of making full use of your tyres'
grip on the road and the fact that the grip limit is not the same in all
cases: it is different according to the road conditions, the tyres
themselves and the way they are used.
The simplest of these to understand is the road conditions: there is a
huge difference in the vehicle's grip on the road when driving on a normal
asphalt road and a gravel road. Naturally the grip on the asphalt road is
far greater than on the gravel. Also, even on the same asphalt road there
is a huge difference in the vehicle's grip on the road when the road
surface is dry and when it is wet.
The tyres with the best grip of all are sports car tyres. The size of the
tyres also affects their grip on the road: the wider the tyres, the more
of the tyre surface touches the road, and the more of the tyre surface
touching the road, the greater the tyre's grip on the road surface.
On top of that, the way you drive can also have a great effect on the
grip power of your vehicle on the road, and this is known as weight
shifting. It is quite obvious that it is the four tyres which support the
weight of any vehicle on the road. For example, if the total weight of
a particular vehicle is 1000kg, each of the four tyres bears 250kg of the
weight. However, this is only when the car is stationary. When the car
begins to move the balance of the weight is displaced. For example, when
viewed from the side, a stationary car is supported equally by all the
tyres, but a car which is accelerating has the nose raised and the tail
down, but when you apply the brake the care(sic) has its nose down and its
tail raised. This is because the balance of the weight of the vehicle has
shifted. When the car is stationary the front and rear wheels each support
500kg, but when it accelerates the weight balance is shifted to the rear
so that the front tyres support 400kg whilst the rear tyres support 600kg.
You can even experience this weight shift for yourself when riding in a
car: when accelerating your back is pressed into the seat whereas when
you brake you tend to fall forwards.
As you might expect, this weight shifting also has an effect on the tyres'
grip on the road: basically, the more weight applied through a tyre, the
greater its grip on the road surface. Again you can try it for yourself -
using a pencil rubber try rubbing it lightly on a piece of paper and then
try rubbing it hard. You will feel the difference in the friction (=grip)
between the two. Therefore when a vehicle barkes, the 500kg on the front
wheels becomes 600kg due to weight shifting, and this has the effect of
increasing the grip of the front tyres on the road surface. If we apply
this to the graph we used previously (with regard to the tyres), this
has the effect of increasing the size of the circle bordering the grip
limits of the tyres. Increasing the weight of the tyres from 500kg to
600kg (an increase of 20%) increases the area within the circle on the
graph by 20%.
If you apply these ideas to your driving, you will soon be able to drive
both quickly and steadily.
APPLICATION OF WEIGHT SHIFTING
------------------------------
The most important thing to learn when racing on a circuit is to be able
to take corners at speed. The reason for this is that, when driving down
the straight there is no particular technique you can use to help you win -
just select the appropriate gear and keep your foot pressed down on the
accelerator.
In order to take corners at speed you need to be able to make full use of
weight shifting and use the tyres to their limit. Here we will explain in
simple terms how to take a croner joining two straights as quickly as
possible. First of all, from the road leading up to the corner to entering
the corner itself.
ENTERING THE CORNER - TURNING IN
--------------------------------
To turn your vehicle around a corner you need to turn the steering wheel in
the direction of the corner, but in order to take the corner as fast as
possible you also need to use the full grip capabilities of the tyres when
tuning the car. The most effective way to do this, as we discussed in the
last section, is to brake hard in order to shift the balance of weight of
the car from the back to the front so that more of the weight of the vehicle
is displaced over the front tyres. In other words, you should brake into
a corner. If you brake hard and then release the brake before turning the
steering wheel, the weight you transferred to the front tyres will be
removed and the grip of the front tyres will therefore decrease. This is
why you should brake into the corner, turning the steering wheel as you
brake. The most difficult part of this is judging how hard to brake.
If you brake too hard when cornering, you will exceed the tyre grip limit
(point C on the vertical graph axis) and you will therefore have no
left/right grip with which to turn the corner. There is no quick and easy
way around this - you just have to practise and learn from your mistakes.
Perhaps the best advice is brake as hard as possible as you approach the
corenr, then ease off the brake slightly as you turn the corner. You
should however, remember not to release the brake entirely. Just ease up
slightly or you will be unable to take corners at speed. If you think
of the grip limit (point C) as the top of the scale at 10, when turning
the corner you should be braking at around a strangth of 3 or 4 (although
this may change depending on the situation). The reason for this is that
the weight shifting effect of braking keeps the weight over the front tyres
making for a better grip on the road. Once you have turned the corner
sufficiently you can then release your foot from the brake pedal and you
should then accelerate out of the corner.
If your car starts spinning as you begin to turn the corner, this means that
either you have too much weight transferred to the front wheels or you are
travelling too fast to take the corner. If you find that you have too much
weight transferred to the front of the car you should begin to ease up
off the brake a little earlier, and if you are driving too fast you should
try braking a little earlier.
ACCELERATING OUT OF CORNERS
---------------------------
If you have managed to negotiate teh corner successfully, you should then
accelerate away into the next straight as quickly as possible. Getting away
quickly from a corner is the key - the faster you can begin to accelerate
out of a corner determines how quickly you can take the corner. Therefore,
as was explained earlier, the key points are using the weight shifting
technique to its full advantage, and atking your car's braking capabilities
to the limit.
Your car is very unstable as it enters a corner. Simply put, when
cornering you are putting your car into a position in which it is much more
likely to spin. This can clearly be seen from the previous example; the car
will begin to spin if there is too much weight at the front of the car as
it begins to turn the corner. Therefore the key point here is that you
should try to start accelerating from the clipping point on the corner. The
clipping point will be different depending on the size of the corner, but
this will be discussed further under DRIVING LINES.
So what is the best way to stabilise a car which is on the point of
spinning? Spinning occurs because the left/right grip limit of the rear
wheels (horizontal axis on the graph) has been exceeded, so you have to
increase the gripping power of the rear wheels. In order to do that you
need to transfer weight to the rear of the car by accelerating. In other
words, you should accelerate out of a spin to stabilise your car. However,
here again the difficult problem is the degree of correction you should
take, and this will be different dependng on whether the car is front or
rear driven. If for example your car is rear drive and you accelerate too
hard, you lose your left/right grip power (horizontal on the graph) to the
front wheels, you will be unable to control the direction of the car and
you will go into a spin. You should therefore shift the weight to the rear
more gradually in order to keep control of the steering. In other words,
accelerate slightly to make use of weight shifting and to stabilise the car,
then accelerate hard out of the corner when you have the car under control.
This is the key to fast cornering.
Another reason behind failing to corner quickly is under-steering: this is
where you accelerate out of the corner too soon, before turning the corner
properly. The result is that the corner is not taken on a good racing line
but is taken too wide. In other words, whilst the car is reasonably
stable (i.e., it will not go into a spin) there is still some leeway on
the left/right grip limit of the tyres so the car is not being driven to
its limits. Therefore, if you put your foot down on the accelerator you
can accelerate out of the corner because you still have leeway on the
vertical axis of the graph too. However, the gripping power on the front
tyres is not very good when under-steering because there is insuffcient
weight shifting to the front of the vehicle.
Therefore even if you turn the steering wheel further into the corner,
the car will not recover a tight line on the corner because the grip limits
of the front tyres have been exceeded. If you experience under-steering you
need to turn your car more into the corner, so you need to barke longer
than you would normally and turn the steering wheel further into the corner.
If this does not rectify the situation, it means that you are going into
the corner too slow, so if you increase your speed a little you should be
able to turn more easily.
Now we will go on to cover front drive cars. In the case of FR cars, you
do not need to worry about the vehcile spinning out of control even if you
hit the accelerator suddenly. This is because the front wheels tend to lose
some of their gripping power the more you accelerate in FR cars which means
that the only real problem is under-steering. Therefore, when you take a
corner in an FR vehicle, the most important thing to bear in mind is to
accelerate without under-steering. As with rear drive cars, FR cars are
unstable (trying to spin) when cornering, so you should stabilise the car
by increasing your acceleration a little, thus reducing the left/right
grip power of the front tyres. As you gradually return the steering wheel
to a straighter line as you come out of the corner you should accelerate
hard to make as much use as possible of the acceleration grip (vertical
axis on the graph).
In summary, whether you are driving n FR or an FF car, the most basic rule
to observe when cornering is to use both the gripping power of the car to
its limits at all times whilst also belancing the vertical and horizontal
components of the graph. In addition, when driving your car to its limits
all the time, you also have to bear in mind the fact that it is very easy
to exceed the grip capabilities of your tyres by accelerating or braking
too hard or too quickly or by turning the steering wheel to(sic) hard.
Welcome, drivers! This is aimed at everyone starting Simulation mode,
people who have never played GT1 or 2 and experienced veterans(so they
think!) alike.
Most of you shouldn't follow this too closely, because it's more fun
doing everything for yourself.
You start off with some money to buy a car, but we wont be spending that
to buy a car. No? Well, hopefully not.
First things first, go to the Licence Centre to do your B class Licence,
because you'll need it to enter races. The aim here is to get all Golds
in the B Licence, so take as long as it requires to get them. Also,
read my Licence Guide above to help you.
By getting all Golds, you will be awarded with a free car: a Mazda Roadster
MX-5(Miata). Although this car is available to buy with the money available
to you, you now can spend your money upgrading it. This will help you win
the earlier races alot easier.
You could also get the A Licence around this time, because you'll need it
soon enough. You don't have to go for Gold in this one, bronze will be
sufficient.
Instead of updating your MX-5, you may wish to buy a Toyota Sprinter Trueno
GT Apex, which is thought by many to be the best beginning car. You'll
have some money left over to update it a small bit, but you could sell your
MX-5 to create more money.
Now race in the first few leagues to raise more cash, and to get a few cars
in your garage. Try and save up a bit of money to buy a Skyline, the GT
drivers favourite, or a 3000GT VR-4 Turbo. Which are available for less
than 60,000.
Now you can race in most races and tear away the opposition, and with a bit
of tuning, you'll nearly be unstoppable. Race in all the races to finish
the beginner and amateur leagues, and use your winnings to tune your car.
By now, you'll want more licences, so it's back to the test centre to pick
up the International B and A Licences. These will take time to acquire, so
be patient.
After you have acquired your licences, go and use your tuned motor in the
Like The Wimd Race in Professional League. For winning this you get one
of the best cars in the game the Mazda 787B. You'll also get a large sum
of money for winning this one race. Simple! From now on, you will use the
Mazda in everything it can enter, simply put, it's that good! For now,
race and win every race you can enter. Do what you like with the money,
coz it doesn't really matter, you have such a good car. Although, I would
recommend purchasing the Suzuki Pike's Peak for its sheer speed and
handling. This will help you win all the Rallies.
Speaking of Rallies....Now it's time to get that Rally Licence...Welcome
Back! You got it? Well done. Since you've spent your money and can't
afford something as expensive as Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII Rally
Car Prototype. This car really is the mutts' nutts. Win all the Rallies
using this as your car.
Now to get that dreaded special licence, so you can do the remaining races.
This will take you 20 years or so to do, it's that tough! Not really,
but it makes the game sound harder... Then win the remaininmg races, and
you've finished it.....
-=================================================-
-= PARTS GUIDE =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: x
These descriptions were all taken from the Gran Turismo 2 Game Manual.
Sports Brake Kit
----------------
Carbon metallic brake pads give stable stopping power even after long
periods of driving. Initial braking force and anti-fade properties are
greatly superior to normal brake pads so they can be used in endurance
races. If the vehicle is due for a service, the brake fluid will be
replaced.
Brake Balance Controller
------------------------
Controls the management of the anti-lock braking system, and adjusts the
balance between front and rear braking power. Increasing front braking
causes understeer with focus on stability, while increasing rear braking
causes oversteer with focus on cornering. Note that increasing the rear
braking too much makes it easier to spin off the road.
Sports ROM
----------
The most elementary type of tuning. The Sports ROM alters the engine
management system to increase power by adjusting the engine's sparking
period and the air/fuel ratio. For turbo-charged vehicles a complete
tune-up suitable for beginners can be achieved by installing a sports ROM
and exchanging the air cleaner and exhaust.
Port Grinding
-------------
Smoothes the internal surfaces of the inlet and exhaust ports, allowing
air to pass through with less resistance and improving engine response.
Although the increase in power is only slight, this is considered
seesntial for tuning naturally-aspirated engines.
Engine Balancing
----------------
Increases power and enables high engine speeds. Engine friction is reduced
by a detailed tuning process including the implementation of piston weight
matching, and a high-precision fully balanced crankshaft. The engine speed
limiter is also reset.
NA Tuning - Stage 1
-------------------
Increases the power of naturally-aspirated engines by replacing the gasket
with a thinner one to increase the compression ratio, and by adjusting the
ignition period and valve timing. This upgrade also includes exhaust
manifold replacement. Increases peak power without changine the torque at
low engine speed.
NA Tuning - Stage 2
-------------------
Increases power ouput even further at high engine speed by the use of high
compression pistons and head surface grinding to further increase the
compression ratio, and by changing the cams, fitting strengthened valve
springs and grinding the ports. This causes a slight reduction in torque
at low engine speeds range, but increased power at high engine speeds.
The negine management computer is reset to match the specifications.
NA Tuning - Stage 3
-------------------
In addition to the contents of NA Tune stage II, the valve system weight is
reduced to the minimum, and the materials of the pistons, cams, valves,
and con-rods, comprehensively upgraded to handle high engine speeds. The
cams fitted are special racing ones with high lift and wider valve overlap.
The compression ratio is increased to the maximum. The power band is
narrowed to the medium and high engine speed ranges in order to achieve
maximum horsepower.
Increasing the Displacement
---------------------------
This tuning process involves increasing the displacement of each
cylinder by increasing the bore diameter and/or the stroke length. As a
rule, increasing the displacement makes possible an increase in torque
throughout the entire engine speed range.
Sports Close Gearing
--------------------
An exchange of the normal gear assembly for gearing with 5 ratios close
to close to each other. This makes it easy to keep the engine speed in
the power band. This is particularly recommended for naturally-aspirated
engines.
Semi-Racing Super-Close Gearing
-------------------------------
The gear ratios are even closer to each other than with close gearing.
This is ideal for hard-tuned cars with narrow power bands. However,
frequent gear changing is required. This may have a negative efect on
engines with a broad torque range once up-shift power loss is taken into
account.
Fully Customised Service
------------------------
A service for racing cars in which all the gears, including the final gears
can be replaced. This can result in extremely finely-tuned gear ratios to
match the specifications of the machine and the characteristics of a
circuit at any time.
Big Single - High Capacity Single Plate Clutch
----------------------------------------------
This alters the feel of gear changes, and gives a more direct feel when
up-shifting than with a normal clutch.
Twin Plate Clutch
-----------------
A racing clutch kit with two clutch plates, suitable for high-torque,
high-power machines. Clutch slip on up-shift is reduced, and acceleration
imporved.
Triple Plate Clutch
-------------------
A 3 plate clutch kit which improves torque transmission and gives a more
direct feel. Ideal for cars with hard-tuned engines.
Sports Light-Weight Flywheel
----------------------------
A light-weight flywheel incorporating chrome-molybdenum steel. This makes
engine revving easier. Acceleration is also slightly improved, but a
side-effect is that with narrow torque range engines the car tends to
lose speed easily when the road rises.
Semi-Racing Flywheel
--------------------
A flywheel designed for racing, it is even lighter than the sports flywheel.
Engine revving is sudden. Acceleration is also slightly improved, but
a side-effect is that with narrow torque range engines the car tends to
lose speed easily when the road rises.
Racing
------
An ultra-light flywheel for racing use. Both rise and fall in engine speed
is sudden. Acceleration and deceleration are both improved, but a
side-effect is that with narrow torque range engines the car tends to
lose speed easily when the road rises.
Carbon Propellor Shaft
----------------------
A light-weight propellor shaft made from carbon composite materials.
Because the propellor shaft links the engine and the differential,
changine its weight has a similar effect on acceleration to changing
the weight of the flywheel. Increases acceleration.
=---------------------------------=
=- Mufflers and Air Cleaners -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: x-g
Mufflers and Air Cleaners
-------------------------
A combination of a perfectly-shaped sports air cleaner and a sports exhaust
with good exhaust extraction properties. Ideal as a first step in turbo
tuning, it increases torque at high engine speed in naturally-aspirated
engines.
Semi-Racing
-----------
A combination of racing air cleaner with a urethane sponge filter, and a
small, low-resistance exhaust designed to give superior engine efficiency
at high engine speed. Ideal for high-displacement turbo-charged engines.
If used with a naturally-aspirated engine, the engine itself must always
be perfectly tuned.
Racing
------
A combination of racing air filter equipped with an air funnel that gives
even better air intake than the semi-racing filter, and a high efficiency
straight-through exhaust designed for racing cars which normally run at
high engine speeds. Because torque is reduced at low engine speed, the
engine characteristics and gear ratios need to be taken into account.
Stage 1
-------
The car body is made lighter by removing unnecessary parts and by changing
some the materials used(sic). Reducing the weight of the body has many
benefits, such as improved acceleration, cornering, braking, and tyre
durability.
Stage 2
-------
Further removal of unnecessary parts and changing some materials used to
reduce weight. Further improvements in acceleration, cornering, braking,
and tyre durability.
Stage 3
-------
Further removal of unnecessary parts and changing some materials used to
reduce weight. Further improvements in acceleration, cornering, braking,
and tyre durability.
Stage 4
-------
Yet further changes to the materials and also the shape of the car body.
Changes to the colouring and addition of aerodynamic parts.
It is possible to add downforce to the car by the addition of aerodynamic
parts. The balance of the car at high speeds can be changed by adjusting
the strength of the downforce at the front and rear.
=---------------------------------=
=- Professional Tune-Up Parts -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: x-i
It will not be possible to use these parts correctly without a detailed
knowledge of cars.
Please take adequate precautions.
Limited Slip Differential(LSD)
------------------------------
These are tuning parts designed to prevent wheel spin from the inside
wheel when accelerating through corners. By preventing the free spinning
of the wheel on one side which causes a loss of vertical loading, load is
applied to the wheel, and torque can be transferred to the wheel on the
other side. By skilful use of the LSD, the character of a vehicle can
be markedly changed. The strength of the LSD effect is important in for
example at the start of a drag race, and when enjoying power slides in
rear-wheel drive cars. However, although the LSD can increase the
acceleration and deceleration performance of the car, the cornering
performance suffers, and it is necessary to adjust the settings of the
LSD to take into account the balance between these settings and the
skill of the driver.
2 Way LS3D
----------
This is an LSD which delivers a limited slip effect both in the direction
of acceleration and deceleration. The car body position is stabilised
during braking, the brakes can be applied harder, and there is also
greater traction during acceleration. However, as the car is clearly more
difficult to turn, the system is best suited to a driver who has special
cornering skills.
1.5 Way LSD
-----------
This system restricts the limited slip effect in the direction of
deceleration while maintaining the effect in the direction of acceleration.
The characteristic of this is thaat the tuning force of the car when
braking is not restricted too much, whilst good strong traction is
delivered. Because the character of this LSD is not too distinctive in
any one direction, it is jack-of-all-trades.
1 Way LSD
---------
These parts are used when you only want to apply the LSD effect in the
direction of acceleration. Normally, these parts are used in front-wheel
drive cars which are difficult to turn. Because the LSD effect is not
applied at all when braking, the cornering force of the car can be
pushed to the maximum. However, as it is easy for the car body to lose
stability, great care must be taken. The weakness of this type of LSD is
the great change in character in the car from when the accelerator is
pressed, to when accelerating and the accelerator is released, and then
when the car is decelerating.
=---------------------------------=
=- Full Customising Service -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: x-j
Full Customise
--------------
This is a service which seperates the acceleration and deceleration into
independant sides, and allows adjustment of the LSD effect for use in
racing. The character of the car can be greatly changed if there is a
strong effect from the LSD, but on the other hand because the settings
can be changed easily it is also easy to destroy the balance of the car,
so adjustments must be made very carefully.
=---------------------------------=
=- YAW Control System -=
=---------------------------------=
Search Field: x-j
These are parts which will allow the strength of the yaw control system
effects to be adjusted. As the effect is applied stronger and stronger,
turning moment occurs in the car during acceleration, and the cornering
becomes better. Please take care in adjustment as the car will spin
more easily if the control effect is too strong.
Active Stability Controller
---------------------------
A device for preventing spinning of the car due to oversteering by
actively controlling the braking force of all four wheels. When it is
applied strongly, it is possible to strongly stabilise the car. When the
control is lightly applied, the freedom of movement of the car is increased,
but the spin prevention effect is lessened.
Traction Control System
-----------------------
A device which detects wheelspin in driving wheels and automatically
backs the accelerator off in order to prevent the free spinning of the
wheels. It can improve the manoeuvrability of cars with high power
output. Although the car is stabilised if it is applied strongly, the
acceleration will suffer as a result. If it is applied lightly, oversteer
will occur when the accelerator is applied in the case of powerful
rear-wheel drive cars.
Sports Suspension Kit
---------------------
Covers all situations from street driving to circuit driving, and is easy to
work with even for beginners. Both the front and the rear shock absorbers
(dampers) can be adjusted to 10 different dampong levels, and the camber
angles can also be adjusted. The front and rear ride height can be lowered
in 2 cm steps. Incorporates double-cylinder low-pressure gas shock
absorbers.
Semi-Racing Suspension Kit
--------------------------
This highly adjustable suspension kit is recommended for intermediate
drivers. Compared to the normal setting on the sports suspension, this kit
features much harder settings for the spring rate and shock damping. Car
height in both front and rear can be adjusted to millimeter units. The
damping adjustment has five settings. The camber angle is also adjustable.
This kit uses a single-chamber high-pressure gas shock absorber.
Fully Customised Service
------------------------
Shock absorber adjustment, camber adjustment, and also rapid exchange of
springs with different spring rates. Expansion (bound side) and
contraction (rebound side) of the shock absorbers is independant and
10 levels of adjustment are possible.
Strengthened Anti-Roll Bars for Street Use (Soft)
-------------------------------------------------
Reduce sideways body swaying and rolling. They can suppress rolling without
altering ppitching (tipping of the car body backwards and forwards). Used
skilfully, they can reduce lateral load change without interfering with
longitudinal load transfer. Both front and rear are set at rather harder
than normal level.
Racing Anti-Roll Bars (Medium)
------------------------------
Torsion bars and springs to supress body roll. An alternative method of
supressing lateral roll is to harden the suspension by raising the spring
rate, but this reduces longitudinal pitching at the same time, and makes
load transfer during braking more difficult. Anti-roll bars are springs
that work on lateral roll only. These Anti-Roll Bars are set at a harder spring
rate than the 'soft' stabilisers.
Racing Anti-Roll Bars (Hard)
----------------------------
The hardest available and have the highest spring rate. Some caution is
necessary, as the car is apt to spring up if it runs onto the inside kerb.
However, since hard suspension doesn't make the car any faster, you should
select the product that gives the right feel for your driving style.
Fully Customised Service
------------------------
Adjust of the front and rear stabilisers possible at any time. It is also
possible to carry out fine adjustment of the car's movement by skillfully
finding the best balance, matching the adjustments to those of the other
suspension parts such as the springs and shock absorbers.
Sports Intercooler
------------------
An air-cooled intercooler that cools intake air that has been heated by
pressurisation in a device such as a turbocharger. Engine power is
increased because, at a given supercharge pressure, more air enters the
combustion chamber if the air is cooler. This is an essential upgrade for
a turbo-charged engine.
Racing High-Capacity Intercooler
--------------------------------
Increases engine power by cooling the intake air in a supercharged engine.
The greater the intercooler capacity, the higher the cooling power, but
engine response is reduced slightly. This high-capacity racing intercooler
is suitable for tuning engines with high maximum supercharge pressure.
Sports Tyres
------------
Special sports driving tyres which will allow a higher level of grip on
surfaced roads than normal tyres. One set for front and rear wheels.
Fitting high performance tyres is one of the more effective ways of
improving the driving performance of the car. Once you buy the tyres, you
will receieve tyre service continually from then onwards.
Racing Slick Tyres - Hard
-------------------------
Although the absolute level of grip is lower, they use a durable compound.
They can deleiver good stable grip characteristics over long periods. As
the temperature of the tyres is slow to increase, they take some warming
up, and sufficient care must be taken while driving during the first two
laps. These are tyres specific to surfaced roads.
RS-Medium
---------
These tyres use a compound that achieves a good balance between grip and
durability. The tyres will reach the correct temperature after 1 lap, and
can deliver good grip. They don't have the durability of the hard compound
tyres, but they do not wear out as fast as the soft tyres. These are tyres
specific to surfaced roads.
RS-Soft
-------
Even though these tyres are durable to a degree, the compound used has been
chosen to deliver the best possible absolute grip. These are the optimum
tyres for races such as time trials. The tyres will be warmed up enough
to deliver good grip after only half a lap. Because the durability is low,
very careful tyre replacement is necessary. These are tyres specific to
surfaced roads.
RS-Supersoft
------------
These are tyres which sacrifice durability for the sake of the maximum
possible grip. The maximum grip characteristics will only be displayed
after having gone through several corners. Because the grip will suddenly
deteriorate due to wear, great care must be taken in handling the tyres.
These are tyres specific to surfaced roads.
Control Tyres
-------------
Tyres which are as close as possible in characteristics to real tyres.
Although it is extremely difficult to drive using the game controller,
you can experience a simulation of real driving which does not feel like a
game. These tyres require quicker braking, careful steering and delicate
work with the accelerator. These are tyres specific to surfaced roads.
Dirt Tyres
----------
These are special tyres for driving on dirt surfaces. These tyres must
always be fitted when driving on dirt courses. These are designed with
the emphasis on controlling the car when it is driving on slippery gravel
or unsurfaced roads. These special tyres for dirt driving are not
provided for all cars: they are availbale only for a certain number of
models.
NOTE: Frictional wear and tear occurs only in long races and 2-player races.
You can alter the settings for 2-player races in OPTIONS.
Although the above statement is correct for GT2, in GT3, most of the
difficult races have tyre wear on, check my race section to see which.
-=================================================-
-= CAR GUIDE =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: xi
-----
ACURA
-----
Integra Type-R
--------------
Cost: 27,480 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1197 kg
Height: 1321 mm
Length: 4379 mm
Width: 1709 mm
Wheelbase: 2570 mm
Max Power: 197 HP/8000 rpm
Max Torque: 137.42 ft.lb/6200 rpm
Displacement: 1797cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.159
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.546
3.2CL Type S
------------
Cost: 32,230 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1574 kg
Height: 1410 mm
Length: 4877 mm
Width: 1793 mm
Wheelbase: 2715 mm
Max Power: 260 HP/6100 rpm
Max Torque: 232.17 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 3210cc
Engine Type: V6 SOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.143
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.421
NSX 1993
--------
Cost: 94,790 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1392 kg
Height: 1171 mm
Length: 4425 mm
Width: 1811 mm
Wheelbase: 2530 mm
Max Power: 289 HP/7100 rpm
Max Torque: 224.21 ft.lb/5500 rpm
Displacement: 3179cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.070
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.386
NSX 1997
--------
Cost: 99,570 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1370 kg
Height: 1170 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1811 mm
Wheelbase: 2530 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/7300 rpm
Max Torque: 216.98 ft.lb/5400 rpm
Displacement: 2977cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.254
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.392
RSX Type-S
----------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1249 kg
Height: 1400 mm
Length: 4375 mm
Width: 1725 mm
Wheelbase: 2570 mm
Max Power: 200 HP/7400 rpm
Max Torque: 141.76 ft.lb/6000 rpm
Displacement: 1988cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.254
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.547
----------
ALFA ROMEO
----------
156 2.5 V6 24V
--------------
Cost: 38,910 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1320 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1745 mm
Wheelbase: 2595 mm
Max Power: 190 HP/6300 rpm
Max Torque: 163.46 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 2492cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.949
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.602
------------
ASTON MARTIN
------------
DB7 Vantage Coupé
-----------------
Cost: 154,720 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1775 kg
Height: 1243 mm
Length: 4692 mm
Width: 1830 mm
Wheelbase: 2590 mm
Max Power: 420 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 399.97 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 5935cc
Engine Type: V12 NA
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.236
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.325
Vanquish
--------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1820 kg
Height: 1318 mm
Length: 4665 mm
Width: 1923 mm
Wheelbase: 2670 mm
Max Power: 449 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 410.12 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 5939cc
Engine Type: V12 NA
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.023
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.325
V8 Vantage
----------
Cost: 455,500 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1990 kg
Height: 1330 mm
Length: 4745 mm
Width: 1944 mm
Wheelbase: 2611 mm
Max Power: 550 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 549.70 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 5340cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.559
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.260
----
AUDI
----
S4
--
Cost: 39,730 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1510 kg
Height: 1396 mm
Length: 4483 mm
Width: 1733 mm
Wheelbase: 2607 mm
Max Power: 261 HP/5800 rpm
Max Torque: 295.10 ft.lb/2300 rpm
Displacement: 2671cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.902
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.318
TT 1.8T QUATRO
--------------
Cost: 46,580 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1395 kg
Height: 1345 mm
Length: 4041 mm
Width: 1764 mm
Wheelbase: 2494 mm
Max Power: 221 HP/5900 rpm
Max Torque: 206.86 ft.lb/5500 rpm
Displacement: 1781cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.344
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.420
---
BMW
---
328ci
-----
Cost: 50,690 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1465 kg
Height: 1369 mm
Length: 4488 mm
Width: 1757 mm
Wheelbase: 2725 mm
Max Power: 190 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 206.86 ft.lb/3500 rpm
Displacement: 2793cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.540
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.441
---------
CHEVROLET
---------
Camaro z28
----------
Cost: 22,830 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1561 kg
Height: 1303 mm
Length: 4907 mm
Width: 1882 mm
Wheelbase: 2568 mm
Max Power: 285 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 324.75 ft.lb/2400 rpm
Displacement: 5727cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.645
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.229
Camaro SS
---------
Cost: 29,530 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1560 kg
Height: 1301 mm
Length: 4915 mm
Width: 1882 mm
Wheelbase: 2568 mm
Max Power: 325 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 258.21 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 5665cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.051
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.276
Corvette Grand Sport
--------------------
Cost: 40,010 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1496 kg
Height: 1176 mm
Length: 4534 mm
Width: 1796 mm
Wheelbase: 2443 mm
Max Power: 330 HP/5800 rpm
Max Torque: 339.94 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 5665 cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.835
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.271
Corvette Z06
------------
Cost: 54,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1409 kg
Height: 1212 mm
Length: 4566 mm
Width: 1890 mm
Wheelbase: 2656 mm
Max Power: 379 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 358.02 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 5665cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.152
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.244
Corvette C5R
------------
Cost: 1,000,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1139 kg
Height: 1163 mm
Length: 4643 mm
Width: 1941 mm
Wheelbase: 2659 mm
Max Power: 620 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 494.73 ft.lb/5200 rpm
Displacement: 6980cc
Engine Type: V8
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.581
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.153
Camaro Race Car
---------------
Cost: ------ Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1160 kg
Height: 1240 mm
Length: 4915 mm
Width: 1912 mm
Wheelbase: 2568 mm
Max Power: 592 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 680.00 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.959
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.170
--------
CHRYSLER
--------
PT Cruiser
----------
Cost: 17,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1600 mm
Length: 4288 mm
Width: 1704 mm
Wheelbase: 2616 mm
Max Power: 149 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 167.07 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 2429cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.175
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.437
-------
CITROEN
-------
Xsara Rally Car
---------------
Cost: 350,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 960 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4167 mm
Width: 1855 mm
Wheelbase: 2555 mm
Max Power: 294 HP/8500 rpm
Max Torque: 184.40 ft.lb/7000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.758
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.324
--------
DAIHATSU
--------
Mira TR-XX Avanzato R
---------------------
Cost: 11,140 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 700 kg
Height: 1430 mm
Length: 3295 mm
Width: 1395 mm
Wheelbase: 2300 mm
Max Power: 63 HP/7500 rpm
Max Torque: 73.77 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 659cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: ?.???
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.699
Storia X4
---------
Cost: 13,900 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 840 kg
Height: 1450 mm
Length: 3660 mm
Width: 1600 mm
Wheelbase: 2370 mm
Max Power: 118 HP/7200 rpm
Max Torque: 194.02 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 713cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 7.118
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.656
-----
DODGE
-----
Viper GTS
---------
Cost: 78,680 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1531 kg
Height: 1194 mm
Length: 4488 mm
Width: 1923 mm
Wheelbase: 2443 mm
Max Power: 449 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 489.66 ft.lb/3700 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: V10 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.409
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.229
Viper GTS-R Concept
-------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1475 kg
Height: 1193 mm
Length: 4902 mm
Width: 1935 mm
Wheelbase: 2509 mm
Max Power: 498 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 499.07 ft.lb/3600 rpm
Displacement: 7990cc
Engine Type: V10 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.961
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.216
Viper GTS-R Team Oreca
----------------------
Cost: 1,000,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1142 mm
Length: 4548 mm
Width: 1933 mm
Wheelbase: 2444 mm
Max Power: ??? HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 7986cc
Engine Type: V10 OHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.955
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.162
----
FIAT
----
Coupé Turbo Plus
----------------
Cost: 21,030 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1330 kg
Height: 1355 mm
Length: 4250 mm
Width: 1765 mm
Wheelbase: 2740 mm
Max Power: 219 HP/5750 rpm
Max Torque: 226.55 ft.lb/2500 rpm
Displacement: 1996cc
Engine Type: L5 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 6.273
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.427
----
FORD
----
Mustang SVT Cobra R
-------------------
Cost: 31,150 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1628 kg
Height: 1326 mm
Length: 4661 mm
Width: 1857 mm
Wheelbase: 2573 mm
Max Power: 384 HP/6250 rpm
Max Torque: 384.79 ft.lb/4250 rpm
Displacement: 5409cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.448
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.310
Escort Rally Car
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1354 mm
Length: 4387 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2499 mm
Max Power: 299 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 361.64 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1993cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.113
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.249
Focus Rally Car
---------------
Cost: 350,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1420 mm
Length: 4152 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2635 mm
Max Power: 299 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 383.34 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.113
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.235
GT40 1966
---------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 998 kg
Height: 1016 mm
Length: 4293 mm
Width: 1778 mm
Wheelbase: 2421 mm
Max Power: 493 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 433.97 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.204
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.163
GT40 1969
---------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 998 kg
Height: 1016 mm
Length: 4293 mm
Width: 1778 mm
Wheelbase: 2421 mm
Max Power: 493 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 433.97 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.204
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.163
------
GILLET
------
Vertigo Race Car
----------------
Cost: 1,200,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 803 kg
Height: 1600 mm
Length: 3930 mm
Width: 1930 mm
Wheelbase: 2340 mm
Max Power: 419 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: 325.48 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 3600cc
Engine Type: V6
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.625
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.153
Tickford XR8 Race Car
---------------------
Cost: 1,500,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1350 kg
Height: 1360 mm
Length: 4970 mm
Width: 1860 mm
Wheelbase: 2763 mm
Max Power: 599 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 460.01 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 5000cc
Engine Type: V8
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.906
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.182
-----
HONDA
-----
CR-X del-Sol SiR
----------------
Cost: 19,150 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: 1255 mm
Length: 4005 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2370 mm
Max Power: 167 HP/7800 rpm
Max Torque: 115.72 ft.lb/7300 rpm
Displacement: 1595cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.666
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.700
Civic SiR-II
------------
Cost: 18,890 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 950 kg
Height: 1350 mm
Length: 4070 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2570 mm
Max Power: 167 HP/7800 rpm
Max Torque: 115.72 ft.lb/7300 rpm
Displacement: 1595cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.828
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.605
Civic Type-R
------------
Cost: 19,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1050 kg
Height: 1360 mm
Length: 4185 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2620 mm
Max Power: 182 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 117.89 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 1595cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.833
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.656
Integra Type-R 98
-----------------
Cost: 21,560 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1080 kg
Height: 1330 mm
Length: 4380 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2570 mm
Max Power: 197 HP/8000 rpm
Max Torque: 137.42 ft.lb/6200 rpm
Displacement: 1797cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.482
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.583
Accord Euro-R
-------------
Cost: 25,330 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1330 kg
Height: 1405 mm
Length: 4680 mm
Width: 1720 mm
Wheelbase: 2665 mm
Max Power: 216 HP/7200 rpm
Max Torque: 162.74 ft.lb/6700 rpm
Displacement: 2156cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.157
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.593
S2000
-----
Cost: 33,800 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1240 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4135 mm
Width: 1750 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 246 HP/8300 rpm
Max Torque: 160.57 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.102
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.568
S2000 Type V
------------
Cost: 35,600 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1260 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4135 mm
Width: 1750 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 246 HP/8300 rpm
Max Torque: 160.57 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.185
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.577
NSX Type S Zero
---------------
Cost: 98,570 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1160 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2530 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/7300 rpm
Max Torque: 224.21 ft.lb/5300 rpm
Displacement: 3179cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.456
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.401
NSX Type R
----------
Cost: 99,570 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1170 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2530 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/7300 rpm
Max Torque: 216.98 ft.lb/5400 rpm
Displacement: 2977cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.431
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.291
Castrol Mugen NSX GT Car
------------------------
Cost: 1,250,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1090 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1910 mm
Wheelbase: 2530 mm
Max Power: 473 HP/7800 rpm
Max Torque: 289.31 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 3500cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.431
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.291
Raybrig NSX Race Car
--------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: ??? HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.431
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Arta NSX
--------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 473 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.431
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
S2000 LM Race Car
-----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1050 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 473 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.423
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Mugen S2000
-----------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1240 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 243 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.102
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
Spoon Civic Type R
------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 820 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 214 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ??
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.831
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Spoon S2000 2000
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 271 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ??
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.059
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Spoon S2000 Race Car
--------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1050 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 271 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ??
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.874
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
------
JAGUAR
------
XKR Coupé
---------
Cost: 104,890 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1640 kg
Height: 1296 mm
Length: 4760 mm
Width: 2015 mm
Wheelbase: 2588 mm
Max Power: 369 HP/6150 rpm
Max Torque: 387.68 ft.lb/3600 rpm
Displacement: 3996cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO - Supercharger
Power Weight Ratio: 4.315
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.310
XJ220 Road Car
--------------
Cost: 780,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1375 kg
Height: 1150 mm
Length: 4930 mm
Width: 2007 mm
Wheelbase: 2640 mm
Max Power: 516 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 473.03 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 3498cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.664
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.213
XJ220 Race Car
--------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1320 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 542 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: v6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.435
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
------
LANCIA
------
Delta HF Integrate Rally Car
----------------------------
Cost: 500,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1120 kg
Height: 1380 mm
Length: 3900 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2480 mm
Max Power: 295 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 314.63 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 1995cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.726
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.261
------
LISTER
------
Storm V12 Race Car
------------------
Cost: 1,198,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1438 kg
Height: 1321 mm
Length: 4547 mm
Width: 1975 mm
Wheelbase: 2591 mm
Max Power: 593 HP/6100 rpm
Max Torque: 580.07 ft.lb/3450 rpm
Displacement: 6996cc
Engine Type: V12
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.420
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.182
-----
LOTUS
-----
Elise 190
---------
Cost: 58,530 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 870 kg
Height: 1202 mm
Length: 3726 mm
Width: 1701 mm
Wheelbase: 2300 mm
Max Power: 190 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 139.59 ft.lb/4900 rpm
Displacement: 1796cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.582
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.348
Espirit V8-SE
-------------
Cost: 106,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1380 kg
Height: 1150 mm
Length: 4415 mm
Width: 1885 mm
Wheelbase: 2420 mm
Max Power: 349 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 295.10 ft.lb/4280 rpm
Displacement: 3506cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.909
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.343
Espirit Sport 350
-----------------
Cost: 113,540 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1300 kg
Height: 1150 mm
Length: 4369 mm
Width: 1883 mm
Wheelbase: 2420 mm
Max Power: 349 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 295.10 ft.lb/4250 rpm
Displacement: 3506cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.682
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.323
Motor Sport Elise
-----------------
Cost: 100,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 700 kg
Height: 1200 mm
Length: 3796 mm
Width: 1716 mm
Wheelbase: 2300 mm
Max Power: 200 HP/8000 rpm
Max Torque: 144.65 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 1796cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.482
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.355
-----
MAZDA
-----
NOTE: Mazda Roadster series is the same as the Miata Series
Demio GL-X
----------
Cost: 14,660 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 960 kg
Height: 1535 mm
Length: 3800 mm
Width: 1670 mm
Wheelbase: 2390 mm
Max Power: 98 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 94.02 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 9.795
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.750
Roadster MX-5 1989
------------------
Cost: 16,900 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 980 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 3955 mm
Width: 1675 mm
Wheelbase: 2265 mm
Max Power: 128 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 115.72 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 1839cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.538
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.624
Roadster MX-5 1993
------------------
Cost: 17,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 940 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 3955 mm
Width: 1675 mm
Wheelbase: 2265 mm
Max Power: 128 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 101.26 ft.lb/5500 rpm
Displacement: 1597cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.966
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.681
Roadster MX-5 1.8RS
-------------------
Cost: 22,950 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1030 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 3955 mm
Width: 1680 mm
Wheelbase: 2265 mm
Max Power: 142 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 120.06 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 1839cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.202
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.631
Roadster LS
-----------
Cost: 23,280 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1070 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 3955 mm
Width: 1680 mm
Wheelbase: 2265 mm
Max Power: 157 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 125.12 ft.lb/5500 rpm
Displacement: 1839cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.687
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.629
Savanna RX-7 Infini III
-----------------------
Cost: 32,300 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1200 kg
Height: 1270 mm
Length: 4310 mm
Width: 1690 mm
Wheelbase: 2430 mm
Max Power: 212 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 202.52 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1308cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.741
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.434
RX-7 Type RS
------------
Cost: 37,780 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1280 kg
Height: 1230 mm
Length: 4285 mm
Width: 1760 mm
Wheelbase: 2425 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 231.45 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 1308cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.459
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.390
RX-7 Type RZ
------------
Cost: 39,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1230 mm
Length: 4285 mm
Width: 1760 mm
Wheelbase: 2425 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 231.45 ft.lb/5500 rpm
Displacement: 1308cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.379
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.383
RX-8
----
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1200 kg
Height: 1331 mm
Length: 4326 mm
Width: 1781 mm
Wheelbase: 2700 mm
Max Power: 245 HP/8500 rpm
Max Torque: 152.65 ft.lb/7500 rpm
Displacement: 1308cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.270
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.489
787B
----
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 830 kg
Height: 1003 mm
Length: 4782 mm
Width: 1994 mm
Wheelbase: 2662 mm
Max Power: 690 HP/9000 rpm
Max Torque: 448.43 ft.lb/6500 rpm
Displacement: 1308cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.202
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.135
RX-7 LM Race Car
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1050 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 572 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: Rotary
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.835
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
-------------
MERCEDES-BENZ
-------------
SLK 230 Kompressor
------------------
Cost: 55,310 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1325 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 3995 mm
Width: 1715 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 193 HP/5300 rpm
Max Torque: 206.86 ft.lb/2500 rpm
Displacement: 2295cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO - Supercharger
Power Weight Ratio: 5.862
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.399
CLK55
-----
Cost: 93,100 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1570 kg
Height: 1371 mm
Length: 4567 mm
Width: 1722 mm
Wheelbase: 2690 mm
Max Power: 347 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 376.11 ft.lb/4300 rpm
Displacement: 5439cc
Engine Type: V4 SOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.838
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.259
CL600
-----
Cost: 133,950 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1955 kg
Height: 1398 mm
Length: 4993 mm
Width: 1857 mm
Wheelbase: 2885 mm
Max Power: 361 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 391.29 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 5786cc
Engine Type: V12
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.578
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.310
CLK Touring Car
---------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1000 kg
Height: 1260 mm
Length: 4655 mm
Width: 1850 mm
Wheelbase: 2690 mm
Max Power: 443 HP/7500 rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 4000cc
Engine Type: V8
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.912
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.169
----
MINI
----
Mini Cooper 1.3l
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 750 kg
Height: 1350 mm
Length: 4120 mm
Width: 1240 mm
Wheelbase: 2040 mm
Max Power: 61 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 93.21 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1271cc
Engine Type: L4 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 11.803
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.765
----------
MITSUBISHI
----------
FTO GP Version R
----------------
Cost: 21,600 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1300 mm
Length: 4365 mm
Width: 1735 mm
Wheelbase: 2500 mm
Max Power: 197 HP/7500 rpm
Max Torque: 147.55 ft.lb/6000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.867
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.572
Lancer Evolution VII RS
-----------------------
Cost: 25,180 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1320 kg
Height: 1450 mm
Length: 4455 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2625 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 292.08 ft.lb/2750 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.190
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.315
Lancer Evolution VI RS
----------------------
Cost: 25,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1260 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/3000 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.038
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.303
Lancer Evolution IV GSR
-----------------------
Cost: 29,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1260 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 260.38 ft.lb/3000 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.038
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.303
Lancer Evolution VII GSR
------------------------
Cost: 29,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1400 kg
Height: 1450 mm
Length: 4455 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2625 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 282.08 ft.lb/2750 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.444
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.334
Lancer Evolution V GSR
----------------------
Cost: 32,480 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1360 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/3000 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.444
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.326
Lancer Evolution VI GSR
-----------------------
Cost: 32,480 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1360 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/3000 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.358
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.327
Lancer Evolution VI GSR Tommi Makinen Edition
----------------------------------------------
Cost: 32,780 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1360 kg
Height: 1405 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/2750 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.358
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.327
Lancer Evolution VI GSR Tommi Makinen Edition (Striped)
-------------------------------------------------------
Cost: 32,780 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1360 kg
Height: 1405 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/2750 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.358
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.327
3000GT VR-4 Turbo
-----------------
Cost: 43,230 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1710 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4575 mm
Width: 1840 mm
Wheelbase: 2470 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 314.63 ft.lb/2500 rpm
Displacement: 2972cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.428
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.349
3000GT VR-4
-----------
Cost: 43,230 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1680 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4600 mm
Width: 1840 mm
Wheelbase: 2470 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 314.63 ft.lb/2500 rpm
Displacement: 2972cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.333
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.343
Lancer Evolution VI Rally Car
-----------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 297 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 376.11 ft.lb/3500 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.086
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.240
Lancer Evolution VII Rally Car Prototype
----------------------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1415 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2625 mm
Max Power: 301 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: ???.85 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.086
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
FTO LM Race Car (1996 Model)
----------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 980 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 567 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.728
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
Mine's Lancer Evolution VI
--------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1210 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 394 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.071
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
------
NISSAN
------
Silvia Varietta
---------------
Cost: 27,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1330 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4445 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 162 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 141.76 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.927
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.580
Skyline GTS-t Type M
--------------------
Cost: 23,850 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1260 kg
Height: 1325 mm
Length: 4530 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2615 mm
Max Power: 212 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 195.28 ft.lb/3200 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.019
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.401
Skyline 1994 GT-R V-spec II
---------------------------
Cost: 52,600 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1540 kg
Height: 1340 mm
Length: 4545 mm
Width: 1755 mm
Wheelbase: 2615 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 260.38 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.601
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.358
Skyline GT-R V-spec
-------------------
Cost: 53,900 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1540 kg
Height: 1360 mm
Length: 4675 mm
Width: 1780 mm
Wheelbase: 2720 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 271.23 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.738
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.353
Skyline 1999 GT-R V-spec
------------------------
Cost: 55,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1560 kg
Height: 1360 mm
Length: 4600 mm
Width: 1785 mm
Wheelbase: 2665 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 289.31 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.712
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.336
Skyline 2000 GT-R v-spec II
---------------------------
Cost: 57,480 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1560 kg
Height: 1340 mm
Length: 4600 mm
Width: 1785 mm
Wheelbase: 2665 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 289.31 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.712
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.336
Silvia 1991 K's 2000cc
----------------------
Cost: 20,360 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1170 kg
Height: 1290 mm
Length: 4470 mm
Width: 1690 mm
Wheelbase: 2475 mm
Max Power: 202 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 202.52 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.875
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.359
Silvia 1988 K's 1800cc
----------------------
Cost: 18,860 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1120 kg
Height: 1290 mm
Length: 4470 mm
Width: 1690 mm
Wheelbase: 2475 mm
Max Power: 172 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 166.35 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1809cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.517
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.419
240 SX K's Aero
---------------
Cost: 23,950 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1250 kg
Height: 1295 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1730 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 216 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 202.52 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.940
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.384
Silvia Spec-R Aero
------------------
Cost: 25,600 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1240 kg
Height: 1285 mm
Length: 4445 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 246 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 202.52 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.261
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.381
240 SX Fastback Type X
----------------------
Cost: 24,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1220 kg
Height: 1290 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2475 mm
Max Power: 202 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 202.52 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.083
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.375
300ZX Twin Turbo 2-Seater
-------------------------
Cost: 39,900 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1520 kg
Height: 1245 mm
Length: 4305 mm
Width: 1790 mm
Wheelbase: 2450 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 286.42 ft.lb/3600 rpm
Displacement: 2960cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.676
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.330
300ZX 2by2
----------
Cost: 43,980 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1580 kg
Height: 1255 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1800 mm
Wheelbase: 2570 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 286.42 ft.lb/3600 rpm
Displacement: 2960cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.861
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.343
Pennzoil Nismo GT-R
-------------------
Cost: 785,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1200 kg
Height: 1220 mm
Length: 4600 mm
Width: 1885 mm
Wheelbase: 2665 mm
Max Power: 493 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 520.76 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 2708cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.044
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.143
Z Concept
---------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1320 kg
Height: 1331 mm
Length: 4300 mm
Width: 1864 mm
Wheelbase: 2649 mm
Max Power: 275 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 3500cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.086
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.339
Nismo GT-R LM Road Car
----------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1580 kg
Height: 1300 mm
Length: 4675 mm
Width: 1880 mm
Wheelbase: 2720 mm
Max Power: 300 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.450
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.357
R390 GT1 LM Race Car
--------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 900 kg
Height: 1140 mm
Length: 4720 mm
Width: 2000 mm
Wheelbase: 2720 mm
Max Power: 542 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 470.13 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 3495cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.188
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.103
R390 GT1 Road Car
-----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1180 kg
Height: 1140 mm
Length: 4720 mm
Width: 2000 mm
Wheelbase: 2720 mm
Max Power: 352 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 470.13 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 3495cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.352
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.103
Nismo 400R
----------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1550 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 395 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.924
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Nismo Skyline GTR R-Tune
------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1560 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 452 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.451
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Nismo Syline GTR S-Tune
-----------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1500 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 403 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.722
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
C-West Razo Silvia
------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 296 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.885
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Loctite Zexel
-------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 461 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.386
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Calsonic Skyline
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 461 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.386
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Nismo GT-R LM Road Car
----------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1580 kg
Height: 1300 mm
Length: 4675 mm
Width: 1880 mm
Wheelbase: 2720 mm
Max Power: 301 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 2568cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.249
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.422
Mine's Skyline GTR-N1 V-spec
----------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1340 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 591 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.267
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
------
PAGANI
------
Zonda C12
---------
Cost: 275,010 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1250 kg
Height: 1151 mm
Length: 4345 mm
Width: 1933 mm
Wheelbase: 2730 mm
Max Power: 388 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 420.95 ft.lb/3800 rpm
Displacement: 5987cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.221
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.218
Zonda S
-------
Cost: 352,440 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1250 kg
Height: 1151 mm
Length: 4345 mm
Width: 1933 mm
Wheelbase: 2730 mm
Max Power: 543 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 553.31 ft.lb/4100 rpm
Displacement: 7010cc
Engine Type: V12
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.302
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.165
Zonda LM Race Car
-----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1151 mm
Length: 4345 mm
Width: 1933 mm
Wheelbase: 2730 mm
Max Power: 651 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 553.31 ft.lb/4100 rpm
Displacement: 7010cc
Engine Type: V12
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.766
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.165
-----
PANOZ
-----
Esperante GTR-1
---------------
Cost: 2,000,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 4459 mm
Width: 1838 mm
Wheelbase: 2544 mm
Max Power: 570 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.017
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
-------
PEUGEOT
-------
206 S16
-------
Cost: 23,360 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1080 kg
Height: 1432 mm
Length: 3835 mm
Width: 1652 mm
Wheelbase: 2442 mm
Max Power: 138 HP/5800 rpm
Max Torque: 135.23 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.666
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.497
206 Rally Car
-------------
Cost: 350,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1300 mm
Length: 4005 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2468 mm
Max Power: 299 HP/5250 rpm
Max Torque: 349.89 ft.lb/3500 rpm
Displacement: 1988cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.474
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.193
-------
RENAULT
-------
Clio Sport V6 24V
-----------------
Cost: 43,400 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1335 kg
Height: 1365 mm
Length: 3803 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 226 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 221.32 ft.lb/3750 rpm
Displacement: 2946cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.540
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.375
Clio Sport Race Car
-------------------
Cost: 300,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: 1280 mm
Length: 3803 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2510 mm
Max Power: 285 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 2946cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.323
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.323
---
RUF
---
3400S
-----
Cost: 76,740 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1300 kg
Height: 1290 mm
Length: 4315 mm
Width: 1780 mm
Wheelbase: 2415 mm
Max Power: 305 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 265.44 ft.lb/4750 rpm
Displacement: 3387cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.601
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.304
RGT
---
Cost: 160,000 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1330 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4430 mm
Width: 1765 mm
Wheelbase: 2350 mm
Max Power: 379 HP/7700 rpm
Max Torque: 277.02 ft.lb/5200 rpm
Displacement: 3600cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.975
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.298
CTR2
----
Cost: 382,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1380 kg
Height: 1275 mm
Length: 4290 mm
Width: 1735 mm
Wheelbase: 2272 mm
Max Power: 512 HP/5800 rpm
Max Torque: 505.57 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 3600cc
Engine Type: V6 SOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.273
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.169
------
SHELBY
------
Cobra
-----
Cost: 500,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1068 kg
Height: 1245 mm
Length: 3962 mm
Width: 1727 mm
Wheelbase: 2286 mm
Max Power: 485 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 480.26 ft.lb/3500 rpm
Displacement: 6997cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.202
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.163
------
SUBARU
------
Legacy B4 RSK
-------------
Cost: 26,430 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1410 kg
Height: 1405 mm
Length: 4605 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2630 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6800 rpm
Max Torque: 249.53 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: V4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.325
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.349
Impreza Sedan WRX STi Version VI
--------------------------------
Cost: 29,190 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1405 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1690 mm
Wheelbase: 2520 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 260.38 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.848
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.303
Impreza Wagon WRX STi Version VI
--------------------------------
Cost: 29,190 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1310 kg
Height: 1440 mm
Length: 4350 mm
Width: 1690 mm
Wheelbase: 2520 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 260.38 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.969
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.313
Legacy Touring Wagon GT-B
-------------------------
Cost: 29,330 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1430 kg
Height: 1490 mm
Length: 4680 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2630 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 249.53 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.373
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.322
Impreza Sports Wagon WRX STi
----------------------------
Cost: 29,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1430 kg
Height: 1460 mm
Length: 4405 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.372
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.322
Legacy B4 Blitzen
-----------------
Cost: 30,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1470 kg
Height: 1410 mm
Length: 4627 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2650 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6500 rpm
Max Torque: 249.53 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.509
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.364
Impreza Sedan WRX STi 2001
--------------------------
Cost: 31,980 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1430 kg
Height: 1435 mm
Length: 4405 mm
Width: 1730 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.373
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.322
Impreza Sedan WRX STi 2000
--------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1430 kg
Height: 1435 mm
Length: 4405 mm
Width: 1730 mm
Wheelbase: 2525 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 274.85 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.373
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.322
Impreza 22B STi Version
-----------------------
Cost: 50,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1390 mm
Length: 4365 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2520 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 267.60 ft.lb/3200 rpm
Displacement: 2212cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.875
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.295
Impreza Rally Car
-----------------
Cost: 300,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1390 mm
Length: 4340 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2520 mm
Max Power: 299 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 347.17 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1994cc
Engine Type: Boxer4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.484
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.220
Impreza Rally Car Prototype
---------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1435 mm
Length: 4405 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2325 mm
Max Power: 301 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.086
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
Impreza LM Race Car
-------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 572 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.010
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.???
------
SUZUKI
------
Alto Works Suzuki Sports Limited
--------------------------------
Cost: 12,220 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 710 kg
Height: 1365 mm
Length: 3925 mm
Width: 1365 mm
Wheelbase: 2335 mm
Max Power: 53 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 72.32 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 657cc
Engine Type: L3 SOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 9.594
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.614
Escudo Pikes Peak Car
---------------------
Cost: 1,000,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 800 kg
Height: 1510 mm
Length: 5050 mm
Width: 1900 mm
Wheelbase: 2540 mm
Max Power: 981 HP/8100 rpm
Max Torque: 144.87 ft.lb/6400 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 0.696
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.072
-----------
TOMMY KAIRA
-----------
ZZ-S
----
Cost: 56,800 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 670 kg
Height: 1100 mm
Length: 3630 mm
Width: 1740 mm
Wheelbase: 2375 mm
Max Power: 192 HP/7300 rpm
Max Torque: 144.87 ft.lb/6400 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.964
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.287
ZZ II
-----
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1000 kg
Height: 1190 mm
Length: 4300 mm
Width: 1860 mm
Wheelbase: 2650 mm
Max Power: 542 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.562
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.156
------
TOYOTA
------
Vitz Euro Edition
-----------------
Cost: 12,880 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 850 kg
Height: 1500 mm
Length: 3610 mm
Width: 1660 mm
Wheelbase: 2370 mm
Max Power: 86 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 90.41 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 1298cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 9.770
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.691
Vitz RS 1.5
-----------
Cost: 14,530 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 940 kg
Height: 1500 mm
Length: 3630 mm
Width: 1660 mm
Wheelbase: 2370 mm
Max Power: 108 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 105.60 ft.lb/4200 rpm
Displacement: 1496cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 8.623
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.657
Celica SS-II Fastback
---------------------
Cost: 19,700 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1140 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4335 mm
Width: 1735 mm
Wheelbase: 2600 mm
Max Power: 187 HP/7600 rpm
Max Torque: 133.08 ft.lb/6800 rpm
Displacement: 1795cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.162
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.629
MR-S S Edition
--------------
Cost: 19,800 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 970 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 3885 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2450 mm
Max Power: 138 HP/6400 rpm
Max Torque: 125.85 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 1794cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.028
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.567
Lexus IS
--------
Cost: 20,600 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1310 kg
Height: 1410 mm
Length: 4400 mm
Width: 1720 mm
Wheelbase: 2670 mm
Max Power: 157 HP/6200 rpm
Max Torque: 147.55 ft.lb/4400 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 8.291
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.651
Celica SS-II
------------
Cost: 21,360 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1200 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4435 mm
Width: 1750 mm
Wheelbase: 2535 mm
Max Power: 197 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 151.89 ft.lb/6000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.629
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.625
MR2 G-Limited
-------------
Cost: 23,750 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1220 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 4170 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 197 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 151.89 ft.lb/6000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.130
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.589
Altezza RS200
-------------
Cost: 24,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1340 kg
Height: 1410 mm
Length: 4400 mm
Width: 1720 mm
Wheelbase: 2670 mm
Max Power: 207 HP/7600 rpm
Max Torque: 159.12 ft.lb/6400 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.504
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.620
MR2 GT-S
--------
Cost: 27,130 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1270 kg
Height: 1235 mm
Length: 4170 mm
Width: 1695 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 241 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 224.21 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.162
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.419
Celica GT-Four
--------------
Cost: 32,660 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1380 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4420 mm
Width: 1780 mm
Wheelbase: 2635 mm
Max Power: 251 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 224.21 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 5.162
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.416
Supra SZ-R
----------
Cost: 34,700 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1450 kg
Height: 1275 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2550 mm
Max Power: 221 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 209.75 ft.lb/4800 rpm
Displacement: 2997cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 6.531
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.512
Supra RZ
--------
Cost: 44,800 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1510 kg
Height: 1275 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1810 mm
Wheelbase: 2550 mm
Max Power: 276 HP/5600 rpm
Max Torque: 332.71 ft.lb/3600 rpm
Displacement: 2997cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.471
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.333
Corolla Rally Car
-----------------
Cost: 300,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1230 kg
Height: 1365 mm
Length: 4100 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2488 mm
Max Power: 298 HP/5700 rpm
Max Torque: 376.11 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 1972cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.099
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.240
Castrol Tom's Supra
-------------------
Cost: 1,250,000 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: 1200 mm
Length: 4520 mm
Width: 1910 mm
Wheelbase: 2550 mm
Max Power: 463 HP/6000 rpm
Max Torque: 470.13 ft.lb/4500 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.370
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.171
Celica Rally Car
----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1200 kg
Height: 1305 mm
Length: 4424 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2545 mm
Max Power: 295 HP/5700 rpm
Max Torque: 368.87 ft.lb/3750 rpm
Displacement: 1998cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.013
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.239
GT-One Race Car
---------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 900 kg
Height: 1125 mm
Length: 4840 mm
Width: 2000 mm
Wheelbase: 2800 mm
Max Power: 599 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: 479.54 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 3600cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.382
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.128
GT-One Road Car
---------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 900 kg
Height: 1125 mm
Length: 4840 mm
Width: 2000 mm
Wheelbase: 2800 mm
Max Power: 600 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: 479.54 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 3600cc
Engine Type: V8 DOHC
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.500
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.128
Chaser Tom's X540
-----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1490 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 315 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.730
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex
-----------------------
Cost: 13,550 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 925 kg
Height: 1335 mm
Length: 4205 mm
Width: 1625 mm
Wheelbase: 2400 mm
Max Power: 128 HP/6600 rpm
Max Torque: 109.94 ft.lb/5200 rpm
Displacement: 1587cc
Engine Type: L4 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 7.283
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.620
Altezza LM Race Car
-------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1150 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 597 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 1.926
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Autobacs Apex MR-S GT Car
-------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 1125 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 299 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 3.762
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Celica TRD Sports M
-------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1140 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 197 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.786
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Denso Sard Supra 2000
---------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 464 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 2.370
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex Shigeno Version
---------------------------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 825 kg
Height: ???? mm
Length: ???? mm
Width: ???? mm
Wheelbase: ???? mm
Max Power: 207 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: ???.?? ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: ????cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.985
Torque Weight Ratio: ?.???
---
TVR
---
Griffith 500
------------
Cost: 62,410 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1000 kg
Height: 1250 mm
Length: 3892 mm
Width: 1943 mm
Wheelbase: 2282 mm
Max Power: 340 HP/5500 rpm
Max Torque: 350.07 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 4988cc
Engine Type: V8 OHV
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.117
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.221
Tuscan Speed 6
--------------
Cost: 62,410 Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1100 kg
Height: 1200 mm
Length: 4235 mm
Width: 1720 mm
Wheelbase: 2361 mm
Max Power: 359 HP/7000 rpm
Max Torque: 310.29 ft.lb/5250 rpm
Displacement: 3966cc
Engine Type: L6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 3.047
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.261
Speed 12
--------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1020 kg
Height: 1160 mm
Length: 4690 mm
Width: 2030 mm
Wheelbase: 2666 mm
Max Power: 799 HP/7250 rpm
Max Torque: 650.23 ft.lb/5750 rpm
Displacement: 7730cc
Engine Type: V12
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.278
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.115
-------------
VAUXHALL/OPEL
-------------
Speedster
---------
Cost: 38,390 Cr
DriveTrain: MR
Weight: 850 kg
Height: 1112 mm
Length: 3790 mm
Width: 1711 mm
Wheelbase: 2330 mm
Max Power: 144 HP/5800 rpm
Max Torque: 149.72 ft.lb/4000 rpm
Displacement: 2200cc
Engine Type: ????
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.000
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.354
Calibra Touring Car
-------------------
Cost: ------ Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1060 kg
Height: 1385 mm
Length: 3673 mm
Width: 1756 mm
Wheelbase: 2605 mm
Max Power: 449 HP/11500 rpm
Max Torque: 221.32 ft.lb/9000 rpm
Displacement: 2497cc
Engine Type: V6 DOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 2.000
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.297
Astra Touring Car
-----------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FR
Weight: 1000 kg
Height: 1250 mm
Length: 4290 mm
Width: 1850 mm
Wheelbase: 2617 mm
Max Power: 453 HP/7500 rpm
Max Torque: 368.87 ft.lb/5000 rpm
Displacement: 3998cc
Engine Type: V8
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 1.865
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.168
----------
VOLKSWAGEN
----------
New Beetle 2.0
--------------
Cost: 15,930 Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1256 kg
Height: 1511 mm
Length: 4089 mm
Width: 1724 mm
Wheelbase: 2508 mm
Max Power: 115 HP/5200 rpm
Max Torque: 121.50 ft.lb/2600 rpm
Displacement: 1984cc
Engine Type: L4 SOHC
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 9.443
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.624
New Beetle RSi
--------------
Cost: 70,000 Cr
DriveTrain: 4WD
Weight: 1156 kg
Height: 1461 mm
Length: 4089 mm
Width: 1804 mm
Wheelbase: 2508 mm
Max Power: 224 HP/6200 rpm
Max Torque: 223.62 ft.lb/3200 rpm
Displacement: 3200cc
Engine Type: V6
NA/Turbo: TURBO
Power Weight Ratio: 4.345
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.308
Lupo Cup Car
------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 840 kg
Height: 1385 mm
Length: 3527 mm
Width: 1637 mm
Wheelbase: 2300 mm
Max Power: 123 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: 103.43 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 1600cc
Engine Type: L4
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 5.793
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.506
New Beetle Cup Car
------------------
Cost: ----- Cr
DriveTrain: FF
Weight: 1170 kg
Height: 1450 mm
Length: 4081 mm
Width: 1770 mm
Wheelbase: 2500 mm
Max Power: 201 HP/???? rpm
Max Torque: 199.62 ft.lb/???? rpm
Displacement: 2800cc
Engine Type: V6
NA/Turbo: NA
Power Weight Ratio: 4.915
Torque Weight Ratio: 0.364
Thanks to Soulfly for some of the Glitches, you can see pictures and
videos of them at his website: http://www.envy.nu/gt3central/
Also, thanks to FuSoYa for some Glitches. Without them, this section
wouldn't be here.
How to get the Glitches:
------------------------
(by FuSoYa)
-SAVE GAME first cuz game freezes
-Get a fast car, needs to go over 230+ Mph e.g, escudo,787 etc. Adjust gear
ratios accordingly
-use "Wheelie Setting" Lower Springs,ride height,camber, toe,LSD,ASM,TCS, and
front downforce all the way down.
-Raise rear downforce all the way up
-Break through wall at any stage
-Accelerate away from track into nothingness to gain massive speed.Car will
Wheelie and gain more speed
-Car goes into millions of Mph(My 787 did 2,147,483,647 Mph)
and then game freezes.
-Reset game, and HAVE A NICE DAY
It is easier to do these in Arcade mode, Free Run
---------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5
---------------------
You can drive throught the walls at both ends of the pit lane.
For pictures/videos go to: http://www.envy,nu/gt3central/
---------------
SEATTLE CICRUIT
---------------
Look for the tyres at the each end of the straight. You can drive out there.
-----------
COTE D'AZUR
-----------
At the chicane with the tyres and men in orange, you can go through the wall
to the inside of the track.
Go down the hill towards the Castrol and Ford signs. Hit the corner to the
left of the Castrol sign. You can go outside here.
----------------------
SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11
----------------------
In the pit lane, going the right way, stay parallel to the garages. At the
end there is a yellow and black rail. You can drive through that.
--------------------------------
Buy New Cars previously upgraded
--------------------------------
You need to have two memeory cards for this to work. Save the game on the
first memory card. Replace it with the second one. Buy the car you want.
Upgrade it as much as your money will let you. Save onto memory card 2.
Load the game from Memory card one, and trade the car across from mc2
for the cost price, but you'll also get the upgrades, and still have money
left over.
--------------------------
Shorter Long Championships
--------------------------
(by Not Me)
Hey, here's a tip for everyone. I am a freak about oil changes, when I am in
a long series like the Polyphony Digital Cup I do this to keep my car from
falling apart. Never qualify, win the First 6 races, and somewhere along the
line make sure that the car that finishes 2nd finishes low. With me, it was
a Z06 Corvette and I ran him into a wall on Seattle, he finished last. I
know this may sound like cheating, but I think the no oil changes during a
series sucks, so this is the only time I do this. After the 6th race I had
60 points, The Corvette had 30. If you don't qualify, he'll always start in
third, and if you start the race, then immediately exit he'll finish in
third netting miniscule points 3 or 4, I forget, either way not enough to
beat you, the car that starts in first however will net 10 points each race
for the remaining four races, so watch him. Depending on how the car that
normally has the pole (without qualifying) has done, you may have to race
seven races tops. I have won series after series this way, and it never
seems to wise up. Again, the only reason I do this is because by the time I
get to the 5th race, my oil light is on, and I don't want to suffer a
permanent hp drop.
------------
No 10 points
------------
(by kebl)
If you start a race, burn to the first corner to place first then quit you
will get 0 points , but the others get 6,4 etc i.e. Nobody gets the 10
points (just set for max accel as you won't really be racing).
1. Can you Racing Modify your car/get a new paint scheme?
Unfortunately in GT3 you can't do a full Racing Modification on your car.
The reason for this is that the cars alone took ages to complete, if
there was also a Racing Modified version of each car, the game still
wouldn't be released!
2. How can I get the Lamborghini?
I'm sorry folks, but the Lamborghini is only available in the Japanese
version of the game.
3. I won X Race, how come I can't get X car?
The cars you win are random, so keep trying until you get the car you
want.
4. There is supposed to be 6 F1 cars, how come I can only get 2?
In the American version there are 6, but in the European version there
are only 2 F1 cars. They do have 3 different paint schemes, so basically
there is 6.
5. I've done everything and only got 98% complete, what's up with that?
You need to finish first in the Time Attack Mode in the Arcade Mode.
This is VERY HARD; is the same as getting gold medels in the S-licence.
Also, finish the Single Race in the Arcade Mode can boost up the
percentage too.
6. Why is the Sprinter Trueno GT-Apex Shigeno Version worth so much?
The Spriner Trueno SS is worth 125,000 CR because it is a special
model from some comic book in Japan/USA. I'll find out which comic...
7. Can you turn your engine off like in the ads?
Nope...
8. What's an alloy?
An alloy is an aluminium wheel.
9. Is GT3 going to be released on PSone?
We can only hope... I doubt it will ever be released on PSone. Maybe if
we bribed Sony....
10. How can I ask a question that will appear here?
Post the question on my message boards - the address is given at the top.
11. I emailed you but you never responded. Why?
I get loads of mail and if I was to respond to them all, I'd never get
any sleep.
12. I was just wondering why they called the option Trading, trading. I mean
you aren't trading cars your buying them. Am I right or am i missing an
option so your can trade one car for another?
No you're right, but the option is called trading as that is just
another way of saying buying and selling, or commerce. It's just that
it sounds better than any other name you could call it.
13. I've won X Race, but didn't get X car. Why?
The car you win is random, just win the race(s) again, and hope you
win it this time.
14. I bought a part for my car, but accedentaly chose No when installing it.
How can I install it?
Go to Settings before the race and you should be able to install it.
-=================================================-
-= OUTRO =-
-=================================================-
Index Number: xvi
FAQ Credits:
-Not Me for a lot of the Tuning School and some Tips
-kebl0632 for various additions to the tuning school and tips
-vaporseal for an entry to the Tuning School
-Wiseblood for a Tuning School question
-Soulfly for some of the Glitch locations
-FuSoYa for some Glitch locations
-Powerstation Magazine for some Car/Race info
-Various Sources(Magazines) for Car Stats
-Tricksta Rules for adding to the race guide.
-Kyle Colbey for some corrections
-Nich for Question 12
-Larrylmho for answering question 5
-Everyone who emailed me with Questions and stuff.
General Credits:
-"A" Tadeo for the Disclaimer
-CJayC for putting this FAQ on his site
-Polyphony/Sony for this Game
-Microsoft for Windows and Notepad
-You for reading it
-All Vehicle names are trademarks of their manufacturers
-Gran Turismo and Playstation 2 are recognised trademarks of SCEE, SCEA, and
SCEJ
-AlaskaFox's Guide to Gold is not endorsed by Nike or Coca Cola
